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    • By Trevelyan
      Hi,  the bracelet on my SARB033 is a D385-3C,  it's currently too small for me to wear. I have two spare links, but no pins for them. On removing a pin from the bracelet I found it to be nothing like a cotter pin, nor did it appear to be a "pin and tube".   It was more like a pin with a thicker end that was knurled . 
      I'm looking for resources to purchase a few of these pins,  also links and pins for a JDM  Seiko (a Grey Ghost titanium kinetic) 
      Can anyone point me in the right direction? 
    • By Graziano
      Hi all , Just thought I would share with you guys and gals a video of a Seiko Pressure tester purchased some time ago .Its part of the traveling tool kit that I take to service friends and relatives watches on the go . Anyway  it's a Seiko S-451 pressure tester and it is probably from the 80s or early 90s and very useful for vintage water resistant watches and quarts . I had to upload it to youtube so I could paste on the forum .I restored the Tissot Seastar that you will see as it was a complete no runner with numerous problems .Anyway check it out and enjoy a cigar and a vino rosso https://youtu.be/n8dbQLwsHbg
    • By jbirkrepair
      Hi, I recently purchased a Seiko GMT Perpetual off eBay. The watch has a 8f56 Movement which is the high accuracy quartz movement. 
      The watch was purchased with a low battery (indicated by the second hand ticking every 5 seconds).
      I've since replaced the battery and reset the perpetual calendar, the watch was working for about 3 hours and then just stopped. I've since tried to reset the perpetual calendar again and it doesn't do anything just completely dead. 
      I recently went to a local watch repair shop and they said it would need a entirely new movement and would set me back £250 for it. It would however be done by Seiko not themselves. 
      Any help is much appreciated.

    • By PaulnKC
      I have acquired what I believe to be a WW II era wristwatch.
      It was "made" (offered?) by Mulco. The movement is an FHF 150 (with sweep wheel/center seconds). The case is from "ID" (which is why I believe it to be WW II era).
      Here is the face - still cased...

      Here is the inside of the case back...

      The dial side uncased...

      And the back (uncased)...

      I am not familiar with this movement at all. It's the first time I have seen an FHF. It's also the first time that I have seen (in person) a movement with a sweep wheel.
      I have ordered the Bergeon/Presto puller for odd number spokes. I assume there is isn't anything too strange with these old center-second movements other than the sweep wheel (removal and replacement).
      But would appreciate any info, cautions, warnings etc. that I might need if attempting to service myself. It's not a family heirloom or anything, but I don't want to kill a vintage movement.
      Also curious about watch itself if anyone knows anything about the original Mulco company and it's watches.
      Kind Regards,
    • By rduckwor
      A vintage Elgin 15/0, Gr 559.  I took it down, cleaned and lubricated it and it is gaining 15 minutes/24 hours.  I have looked at the HS, it appears to be perfect, clean, flat, not magnetized (de-magged the movement X 3 already), and in position between the regulator pins.  Not hung on the center wheel.  Correct mainspring, and balance is not knocking.    I do not remember amplitude, but IIRC, it was above 22 which is O.K. by me with the movement.  Please give me some ideas as to how to correct this.  It doesn't seem like there are enough timing washers in the world to slow this down!

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    • Oh yes, the scoring is very light but can be distinctly seen at 40X magnification. It's looks like a countersunk ring around the pivot with a width of only a few thousands of a millimeter. Don't know what would be suitable hardwood (?), but I think I can try with pegwood and autosol first considering the scoring is so light.
    • I would try replacing the cracked jewel, before doing any pivot polishing. Did you use smoothing broaches on the barrel, and what was the result? My advice is not to change anything you can't change back, unless you're absolutely sure you need to.
    • Thank you for your response. pix of the case back and front, also of the movement and it's caliber, helps proper advice. Good luck
    • "Shelter in Place" has me working on a Movado chronograph I picked up some time ago.  The case is a Taubert/Borgel and needed the pendant tube repaired.  Now with that out of the way I need to cut a new cork gasket and figure out how to squeeze it into the tube (that should be fun).
    • Thank you Nucejoe. To further my introduction to this forum, I am, at best, an amateur 'watch repairer'.  Primarily, I am interested in mechanical watches, and plan to maintain and repair some that I own. However, until I am learned and competent enough to tackle my mechanical wind-ups, I am practicing on a sleek men’s Glycine quartz dress watch from the early 90’s.  I am replacing the movement.  In my search for insight about how to do this replacement I began lurking on this forum and perused other on-line sites for useful information.  It seems though that the movement must come out through the front of this watch.  I have ordered a replacement that is the same as the movement the watch currently has and some tools to aid my endeavor – wish me luck.  I live in Virginia, USA.  Am aged mid-sixties (late to enter the game – hope I don’t become too shaky or forgetful before I am able to tackle my vintage and antique wind-ups), female (I mention this as it seems to me that very few females seem interested in what makes watches tick!) and the Glycine I’m ‘working’ on has been generously donated by my husband. I am not always timely in responding to posts, so please do not feel I am intentionally being rude.  I hope all of you will be patient with me.  Thank you.  
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