Fake Rolex ’s are just getting to convincing
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you could try but the problem is the punch that goes inside there is a specific shape if you have the wrong shape it's not going to fit all the way. Plus the end has a specific shape so that ideally you can knock the staff out without breaking the pivots. But usually the hole in the end gets plugged up and that's wishful thinking that you'll keep the pivot intact. then does that have enough adjustment that it would work for your staking set?
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in other words that's not the hairspring for that balance wheel it came from somewhere else? providing the hairspring is flat and not touching the balance arm or the over coil isn't rubbing on the upper bridge. Yes it's common for over coil hairsprings to not be exactly where there supposed to be and their hard to see that they are where there supposed to be. Normally if you are running really fast around 15 minutes it would be because you are missing one of the timing screws. Timing screws have to come in pairs one on one side one on the other if one falls out about 15 minutes is how fast you'd be running. check your balance wheel to make sure all your screws are there in pairs. usually not this fast but you do want to be careful that the balance arms form a nice round circle often times with bimetallic balance wheels people will squeeze them and the wheel will not be round that causes interesting timing problems but not usually as dramatic as this. then just a reminder on modern watches with flat hairsprings a procedure called hairspring vibrating adjusts the hairspring to that exact balance wheel. If you look at parts list for modern watches you typically never see the hairspring separate. In the case of vintage with over coil hairsprings to get the hairspring into the exact shape it's easier to pre-make them. Then the factory would match the balance wheel to that hairspring. then because hairsprings were available separately back then you would also have things like this assortment of screws. Notice in the image the screws are rated per hour and came in either gold usually found a nicer great balance wheels and standard brass. So like your watches about 14 seconds per hour you would mix-and-match the screws to match your balance wheel to your new hairspring. so this is why this isn't working the mean time screws are fine adjustment not meant for matching the balance wheel to the hairspring. oh thinking of assortments is another image out of the catalog it's a shame they overlap the images notice the reference to strengths even for your model of watch? Then unfortunately they covered up part of the image at the bottom but there's a reference to the type is screws found on the balance wheel. the idea would be to find timing screws otherwise you could do a timing washers but typically the maximum effect they have would be three minutes per day and you're going to need a few of them. Then ideally you're only supposed to put one washer under each screw head is not good the double up not that it can't be done but you're really not supposed to. another option you have here is if you still have the other balance wheel see if you have some slightly bigger or heavier screws and do a little mixing and matching just remember to keep them in pairs or you're going to have a heck of a poising issue.
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I am working on a Waltham 1894, it was in poor shape and so the movement is a bit of a mongrel, hair spring from one train wheel bridge from another and so on. I've gotten it to run sorta ok (best of three mainsprings) Trouble is it runs way too fast like 14 minutes fast. I've gotten it down a but by adjusting the mean time screws but I have it running with the screws all the way out as far as they can go with the regulater all the way slow. So is my only option to attempt finding timing washers? Or is there something wrong with my diagnostics.
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I think that the only thing you would need to be cautious of, is whether or not the adhesive you use could off-gas. I've seen threads on other boards where super glue was never to be used for this very reason.
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