Jump to content

How to open this old Benrus...


PaulnKC

Recommended Posts

Greetings all.

I recently acquired a moderately old Benrus 3-Star Automatic wristwatch. It's a #7026 Series.

I believe these are from the 60's - though I don't know much about them.

On the back of the case it says "open through crystal". Which makes me think that the Crystal should be removed using a Crystal Lift - and the movement lifted out through the bezel.

Of course, the stem (presumably two-piece) would have to be separated prior to - or during the operation.

BUT - after some googling - I have also heard tell - that the case-back should be pushed out by pressing on the crystal with thumbs. These seem to be incompatible methods - but I really have no idea - as I have never seen a case like this. 

 

Does anyone have experience with this type of case from Benrus? I can post pictures after I get home - if they are needed.

 

Many thanks!

-Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a typical benrus case they been making these since the 40s. You have to remove the crystal using a brass jaw type crystal remover. Once it’s out you have to separate the split stem. I could explain how to do it but a video is much easier and there are plenty out there. Just do a search on the net “ how to remove a split stem” and there is a tutorial on Esslinger.com on how to use the crystal remover.

https://blog.esslinger.com/how-to-replace-a-watch-crystal/?_ga=2.79089757.839292711.1581400550-1065094695.1581400550

what i will suggest is to use a wire cutting plier and go from the outside of the case not between the movement and the case to avoid damage. Do not pry just allow the tapered shanks of the pliers to pull it as you close down. You may need to do pull it a bit yourself just make sure you pull straight don’t wiggle or pry. It may take some force so don’t be shy with it.

do not push on the crystal and remove crystal before separating the stem

Edited by saswatch88
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, saswatch88 said:

This is a typical benrus case they been making these since the 40s. You have to remove the crystal using a brass jaw type crystal remover. Once it’s out you have to separate the split stem. I could explain how to do it but a video is much easier and there are plenty out there. Just do a search on the net “ how to remove a split stem” and there is a tutorial on Esslinger.com on how to use the crystal remover.

https://blog.esslinger.com/how-to-replace-a-watch-crystal/?_ga=2.79089757.839292711.1581400550-1065094695.1581400550

what i will suggest is to use a wire cutting plier and go from the outside of the case not between the movement and the case to avoid damage. Do not pry just allow the tapered shanks of the pliers to pull it as you close down. You may need to do pull it a bit yourself just make sure you pull straight don’t wiggle or pry. It may take some force so don’t be shy with it.

do not push on the crystal and remove crystal before separating the stem

Thank you saswatch88.

I have a crystal lift coming tomorrow - I'll try using that.

-Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If this is one of the watches where you press on the crystal, you should be able to see a cut-out around the crown area which allows the crown/stem assembly to move downwards. But since it 'specifically' mentions open thru crystal then that is exactly what you need to do!

Anilv

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, clockboy said:

Agree with oldhippy pics are required.

Clockboy (& oldhippy),

I will post some pics this evening. I probably should have done that yesterday when I got home.

As always,  thanks very much for sharing your expertise.

-Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, PaulnKC said:

Clockboy (& oldhippy),

I will post some pics this evening. I probably should have done that yesterday when I got home.

As always,  thanks very much for sharing your expertise.

-Paul

Here are the pics.

I suspect the first one (back) is all that's needed. But including a shot of the front as well.

P2122186.thumb.jpg.27f78f06f26647eea98beb7d348acc0a.jpg

and the front...

P2122188.thumb.jpg.a769d1210c67101f8388edca90bacffc.jpg

 

Thanks!

-Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, yankeedog said:

Yup..remove crystal  tilt movement  out as previously  discussed. If I remember  these have a very nice ETA automatic. 

The rotor is signed Benrus Model FE 2D1. The Base plate is marked UI 2451. Which is apparently an ETA 2451. The auto-winding mechanism is affixed with blue screws - so, at least a somewhat nice movement.

I am not familiar with these. The rotor is super noisy. Don't know if that's normal for this mechanism. Or if something is wrong.

This one is going back to the seller for a "re-check". It keeps pretty good time but the timegrapher traces are all over the place. Even with the movement removed (from case) - and held directly in the timegrapher.

-Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, PaulnKC said:

The rotor is signed Benrus Model FE 2D1. The Base plate is marked UI 2451. Which is apparently an ETA 2451. The auto-winding mechanism is affixed with blue screws - so, at least a somewhat nice movement.

I am not familiar with these. The rotor is super noisy. Don't know if that's normal for this mechanism. Or if something is wrong.

This one is going back to the seller for a "re-check". It keeps pretty good time but the timegrapher traces are all over the place. Even with the movement removed (from case) - and held directly in the timegrapher.

-Paul

Here are a couple of pics of the movement...

P2132189.thumb.jpg.40dd7e181e02a97f206fa35546491927.jpg

P2132190.thumb.jpg.a5482d7a0b5aa74b4306dbb1002c6616.jpg

-Paul

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry I didn't get back sooner. Because I lost Cookie my cat I wanted some time to myself. Nice to know you had the help you needed and it was successful. Keep up the good work. Members on here always like to help. Photos really help.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Paul, Looks clean.

ETA 2451 and its family are true work horse. Rotor should be quite, normally can,t be heard and hardly ever develops a fault, if no slack and falls under own weight, should be OK. If it rattles, check winder module, clean lube reversers.

If the rest of the watch looks good , could be for keeps.

I thought you was going to service it yourself. 

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Sorry I didn't get back sooner. Because I lost Cookie my cat I wanted some time to myself. Nice to know you had the help you needed and it was successful. Keep up the good work. Members on here always like to help. Photos really help.  

oldhippy, I am so sorry to hear about the loss of Cookie. My wife and I foster homeless cats and dogs. Plus have several of our own. Take solace in the fact Cookie had a great life with you while she was here.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Nucejoe said:

Hi Paul, Looks clean.

ETA 2451 and its family are true work horse. Rotor should be quite, normally can,t be heard and hardly ever develops a fault, if no slack and falls under own weight, should be OK. If it rattles, check winder module, clean lube reversers.

If the rest of the watch looks good , could be for keeps.

I thought you was going to service it yourself. 

 

Thanks Nucejoe.

Yes, I would normally (try to) do everything myself, but in this case, the watch was supposed to have been serviced. So, going to give the seller a chance to make it right. Having said that, I may be trying to sort some things after I get it back.

So, I may add on to this thread for more help, as needed.

Thanks!

-Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Welcome my friend. 
    • Been there. Worn that Tshirt.  'ping'. Hands and knees. Nothing. Nada. 20 minutes? Ha! I found it 7 month later. How? Well, after advice from a member, I invested in a £4 UV light torch.  Hands and knees looking for a 'ping' from a Sekonda, found them both within 30 seconds. UV makes the jewel shine. easy peasy. Could have taken longer. Just lucky on the location of the search. Hope this helps.
    • Thanks Dell. I thought about silver soldering. Have never done it but would like to give it a go. Do you think to put flux on the butted joint then run the solder in or to maybe brace it with a piece of scrap spring steel?
    • Never and others. Yes, like you I do spend a fair amount of time reading the contents of this forum. I find it better that any other. Clear, lucid, no Prima Donas, and most of all an easy access without adverts. All thanks to Mark. God bless you mate. You give so much to many of us. What if? No Mark? Hypothetically. A forum. I did run a forum for a few years. Really enjoyed it, but became so engrossed that it did affect my health. I gave to to others to run. Not been back. It was very successful and rivalled a number of large paying sites. No adverts, no others but me. I did ask and listen to members comments and it worked well.    Costs Having a domain name, £10 annually.  Register the site with a forum company, free. Build the site using the forum company guide lines, free. It looked and ran almost the same a Mark's. All the same facilities. The cost was only £5 per month, but counted visits (views). If I recall, it was that price for 5,000 views. Each extra 5,000 views increased the price by £2 per month. Success was my own personal undoing. From £5 per month initially, it rose to £60 a month and looked like increasing. This was 10 years ago. I could not afford that, and asked it anyone would like to take over and someone did. I would assume that this is the price that Mark is funding for us all. His return is our continued comments on the internet about his course, and the fact that many of the big names on YouTube mention him as their Tutor. Those of us who have done, and are still using, his course, benefit. In comparison to other courses, I can't believe how cheap it is, and the value is exceptional. It is the structure that gives the value. Long may Mark reign. Ross  
    • Hi all, total newbie to watchmaking and I've had a bit of a mishap. Just completing level 2 and was doing ok, but I was just on the last part of the reassembly of my ST3620 when the balance end stone shot across the room, just as I was trying to see if I had put the correct amount of oil between it and the balance end, aarrrgh! Been on my hands and knees combing the carpet for 20mins looking for it but to no avail. Does anybody know where I can get a replacement from and what to look for please?? Thanks.
×
×
  • Create New...