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lemania 17 jewel 63082 Manual wind


gaseff

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So... I am totally intrigued with this whole watch thing.

I bought a Lemania 17 jewel 63082.  I took it apart and am in the process of cleaning it now.

Would there be any chance of finding a diagram of this movement, and where all those tiny little parts go.  I took a lot of photos, but a diagram would be helpful.

Question #2.  When I looked at the jewel shown in the second photo with the yellow arrow under a microscope, the shaft/pivot point coming into the jewel was not centered in the jewel.  Is that bad?

 

Thanks.

 

lemonia.JPG

jewel.PNG

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 Bend the spring to bring the end stone in position, Ideally best positioned so stone's center clears the arbour pivot by 0.1 mm or so in FD position. 

Excessive free play of the seconds arbour, lets the seconds and min hands rub. 

Good luck.

 

 

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Thank you so much for the response.  Under balance wheel, on the bottom plate, there is no number or logo.  There is nothing on the bottom of the balance cock either.  The case back has a 192G on the inside.  Otherwise I don't see any markings.

Surfing around last night, after I posted my question - it seems to look like this movement: Lemania S27 T1.   Is there a service sheet for one of these available?

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8 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

 Bend the spring to bring the end stone in position, Ideally best positioned so stone's center clears the arbour pivot by 0.1 mm or so in FD position. 

Excessive free play of the seconds arbour, lets the seconds and min hands rub. 

Good luck.

 

 

Thank you.  Will do so when I start putting it back together.   Do you mind defining "FD Position" for me?  I am brand new to this world of watches.  I googled it and looked for it in a couple of books, but could not find it.  Thx.

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Hi    What Nucejoe means by FD is Face Down  ie the watch is laid on it crystal. The common ones are FD  -  Face Down    Pendant right   -  watch crown is on the right   pendant left    crown on the left  FU  face up watch laid on its back.

As regards A tech sheet for the lemania there are a few I shall have a look through my lists.       Cheers

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29 minutes ago, gaseff said:

Thank you.  Will do so when I start putting it back together.   Do you mind defining "FD Position" for me?  I am brand new to this world of watches.  I googled it and looked for it in a couple of books, but could not find it.  Thx.

F D is Short for face down. 

 

 

 

Edited by Nucejoe
Stands for face down.
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6 hours ago, gaseff said:

Hello - any parts explosion of this would be appreciated.  All parts a cleaned and I am ready to put back together.  There are gears that I am not sure where they go.  Thanks in advance.

 

Watchweasol is our datasheet man. 

Post pix, we'll work with you during assembly. No panic.:pulling-hair-out:.

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Hi  The Lemania S27 T1 apparently uses the omega 320/ 321 as its base caliber for the S27 Chrono all references so far all point to the chrono highlighting the differences, I have found a few docs wether they will be of any help I will have to leave that to your judgment.   If No good let me know and I will continue my quest.         cheers

5188_Lemania5100_Technical Instructions_Smaller (1).pdf Omega 320 (27 Chro C12 T1 PC AM) part 1.pdf Omega 320 (27 Chro C12 T1 PC AM) part 2.pdf

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Keyless work is in. and working.... it winds the spring and it moves the dial.   Which it did not do before (the winding part)

Lost one of the screws - popped out of the tweezers....  see the yellow arrow on the photo.

I will keep moving forward.

The 2 gears I did not know where they went, were part of the clutch and are now installed.

installed 3.PNG

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Hi  You are doing ok. Probably a less complicated movement would have been better as usually there are sheets etc to be had, but it is how it is. The setting lever spring (flume) screw you may be able to source from a donor although they are small  countersunk screws to be found among scrap units.. Remember the old Johnny Cash song  "one piece at a time" and plenty of patience.  Might be prudent to get a large polly bag and work inside of it to cut down the losses. :thumbsu: 

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The reason for taking out the pallet fork and leaving it until you have fitted the rest of the train bridge, is when you fit the barrel and the rest of the wheels in the train bridge you're  going to gently spin the barrel when the bridge is on top of the wheel pivots and see if all the pivots are position in each jewel hole, top and bottom, if they are the wheels will all spin together freely. Keep checking that they are spinning freely as you tighten each screw down gently. If you get this wrong, you run the risk of bending or breaking a pivot or jewel.

A x 10 loupe will ensure you can see they are all in place, if one isn't, 'worry' it into place with a sharpened length of pegwood.

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3 hours ago, gaseff said:

Thanks.  Yes that is a countersunk screw.  I am hopeful to be able to find one.

Do I really need to work in a bag?  Not very glorious!

I've never put a bag around any watches I've worked on, but each to their own I suppose. I would find it really restrictive, especially trying to get to see what I'm doing with a loupe/eyeglass!

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Yet another question... on the two jewels that hold the escape wheel.... do they have holes in them, or just indentations.

I am having a very hard time getting the escape wheel to lay flat in the bottom escape jewel, and when I put the top bridge w/ the top escape jewel in place - the escape wheel does not stay steady when I gently spin it.

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