Can someone please explain to me how on earth do i unwind this Seiko 5126A movement prior to reassembly? (Picture attached).
No manual winding as far as I could find and the winding screw on top of the bridge is not counterturning automatically when I push back the click and basically nothing happens. I can unscrew it but this just releases the screw.
I'll mention that I did experimented with this movement (it's my watch) and first time accidently removed the bridge with power still left. No visible harm was found and after reassembly (hopefully a proper one) everything seemed in order (except for the oiling and cleaning which I haven't yet performed and is due now).
Hello all. I recently purchased what I though was a Seiko 5 project watch. The case back says the movement is a Seiko 6309- 7200 movement. However when I removed the works (and disassembled) it was not a 6309, at least I don't think it is. FE 5612 is stamped on the movement plate and when I looked that up I found pictures of the exact movement on the Ranfft Watches site. So I guess I have two questions. First did Seiko use this movement on their watches and somebody perhaps changed case back, or did someone replace the Seiko works with the FE 5612. Second, does anyone know of a location to find a service manual for the FE 5612 movement? It does not seem to want to go back together nicely (do they ever?) and I am wondering if I have something misplaced as the only description I could find states: "Strange. Train and Hand Gear separately driven by barrel (cf. MSR T43)." I also need a stem and crown and don't have a part number.
Thanks for any and all information.
Today I show off what is probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence.
Let's see what this brand spankin' new Invicta does on the timegrapher:
Oof. Ya hate ta see it. I know these numbers aren't anything to cry over for an 80 dollar automatic, but considering how these days microbrands stick this movement in watches costing hundreds more, and Seiko themselves with the equivalent 4R in watches costing even more, it's just not great. The rate itself to me is a trivial matter as nudging on the regulator is a trivial task. But what speaks to the quality of a movement in my eyes is the consistency of that rate in different positions. With 12 seconds per day difference across positions, middling amplitude, and fluctuating rate while static, albeit slight, is all just a bit "meh" to me.
Let's crack it open and see what we can do.
Hairspring seems to be pulling towards stud.
Hairspring removed from balance and mounted on cock and we can see the full extent of the malformity. That collet is a good ways off from the jewel.
Few hours of sweat later:
Much better! Regulator now runs the full length of the terminal curve without disturbance and collet is centered on jewel.
Let's check out what else I saw:
Some places are absolutely flooded.
While others just barely got any. A good thing I intervened. This thing needed to be redone top to bottom.
Stripped apart, ready to get rid of the crappy factory lube job, and get a real, proper lube job.
All put together, lubed, and few rounds of dynamic poising later:
Massive boost in amplitude, runs on rails and a measly 1 second difference across all positions. Wasn't lying when I said "probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence." See for yourself.
Isn't it at the moment a bit of a waste that this souped up NH35 is being trapped inside its Invicta skin? What do you think?
Hi, so I recently got a seiko 5 snk809 and it was working fine, I then decided to regulate it as it was losing about 1 minute a day. After I regulated it it was working fine then stopped so I shook it to wind it up and then it started working. After 5 minutes it stopped again so I wound it up and it would work but then stop after a couple of minutes. I checked to see if the watch was being winded and it was, so the watch had power but just wouldn't move, I dont know why this is, the watch has power but will only run for a minute or two when I shake it, this hasn't happened before to this watch, so if anyone could help that would be great.
I have a seiko 7548-700f that I bought at a flea market for 15 dollars. Very beat up. Heavy scratches on the back near the lugs. Looks like the previous owner didn't know how to take a case back off properly. Last year during a battery change the screwdriver slipped and i hit the coil block. I managed to replace it without trouble. Starting a couple of months ago it started losing time. LOTS of time. I would take it off overnight and in the morning it would be 5 hours behind the correct time. Happens no matter what position the watch is in. I suspect that this is because the hole for the center wheel is not circular anymore. I know this means I need a service but I can not afford one. I am in highschool with no job. I have posted similar threads to this on several different sites, but no one is helpful. They tell me to get a job or to just pay to service it. What should I do? Should I learn to service it myself or is it even worth it?
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3:29 Oooooohhh that went silky smoothly, I bet nobody else saw that coming. 😆 I remember doing something similar with an old Hornby clockwork locomotive that no longer worked, when I was a kid (showing my age again). I undid the four screws holding the thing together and there was a very similar explosion of uncoiling steel with the addition of a few airborne cogs, and a very confused me sitting thinking bloody hell how did they manage to get all that spring in there, and how the heck am I going to get all the bits back in. Speaking of which, how the heck is he hoping to get it all back in? Superglue and a hammer? AndyHull grabs the popcorn and starts looking for the follow up video.
I also made my account on CousinsUK but cant find Seiko Complete balance can u provide me any links. Thanks.
Will this Fit ? I came across this site while searching for parts this looks similar but belongs to NH36.
Hi Tudor, Thanks a lot for your advise. I considered it as the best solution. Later I discovered that manufacturer did it with an hexagonal 0,5 mm stake, but seems it does not work as expected, as could be seen in the photos of same watch I could find on Internet, almost all are out of "synchrony", so I have my doubts and, any case, I don't have any stake to try it. The pinion diameter is around 0,5 mm diameter at the junction, trying to drive a 10 mm wheel, so the relative torque is so huge that it overcome the manufacturers expectations (I wonder who calculated it, maybe a floating comma fooled him). (Tried to attach a better photo but the page do not allow me to do. I'll do later if possible) As I suppose there may be some shoulder just below the wheel to support it, I though a fluid adhesive may penetrate it enough to increase the adhered surfaces and hence increase it's torque performance. As I have no experience with such kind of junction I'm trying to test different adhesives that can be eliminated to check different makes if not successful. After much thinking and searching I think shellac may deserve a try, diluted it may penetrate everywhere and it could be easily cleaned. I'll post the outcome when I could do it. Again thanks for your help