Jump to content

Construction and Enameling of Dials


Recommended Posts

I've taken an interest in perhaps making a dial.  I would like to make a double sunk type.  I am stuck on the enameling portion.  I've read a brief two pages from Max Cutmore's Collecting & Repairing Watches.  I am posting what I read in order that you may see where I'm coming from. 

This is not my text:

"Coat the blank with gum tragacanth (mixed from powder to paste methylated spirits and diluted with water: 15g (1/2 oz.) gum to a liter (2 pints) water,) place it on a coarse metal mesh and sieve the white enamel powder through a 60-gauge mesh on to the face.  Treat both sides to avoid edges, but the butane method burns enamel off the back.  Apply the torch to the back of the dial until the enamel fuses at about 820°C (1,500°F).  Repeat this process until a satisfactory white finish is obtained.

I understand the "recipe," but once the paste is made, it dries to the consistency of rubber cement.  Given that this must be sprinkled on the copper before firing, I'm at a loss as far as taking the cake from solid to powder.  Is Mr. Cutmore suggesting to spread this paste onto a fine screen of some type and let it dry there; somehow liberate it, then sievet through the 60-gauge mesh? 

If so, I'd be unsure how to remove the gelatinous matter from the first screen.  If not, unless I'm missing something in the text (which is not out of the realm of things,) how does one get the paste to powder form? 

Finally, nowhere did I find that gum tragacanth is vitreous upon firing.  I'm guessing I would have to find vitreous powder on the interwebs?

Edited by SparkyLB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Upon reading this again, it seems that the gum tragacanth is just the adhesive to capture the ceramic powder.  The coarse metal mesh is what the item to be enameled rests on.  I read it wrong, it seems. 

I'll pick up some white enamel powder and go from there. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes the gum is the 'glue' to hold the enamel on the metal until it is fired.

Go look up a enameling supplier and you will find they sell a premixed gum that you can use which is easier than making your own.

You can also buy preground enamel rather than having to grind your own which just requires washing with distilled water.

Years ago I played around a bit with enameling to make some jewelry for my wife. To do enameling well isn't easy and for something as large as a watch dial you really need a kiln to heat it evenly and to allow it to cool gradually so the enamel does not crack. You also need to enamel both sides of the dial to even the stress out, for the back sides most enamelers save their waste enamel, that is bits that missed what they are enameling when sifting it on that has mixed with other colours. Not much modern written material on enameling watch dials, but lots on enameling jewelry which would give you a good place to start.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Tmuir said:

Yes the gum is the 'glue' to hold the enamel on the metal until it is fired.

Go look up a enameling supplier and you will find they sell a premixed gum that you can use which is easier than making your own.

You can also buy preground enamel rather than having to grind your own which just requires washing with distilled water.

Years ago I played around a bit with enameling to make some jewelry for my wife. To do enameling well isn't easy and for something as large as a watch dial you really need a kiln to heat it evenly and to allow it to cool gradually so the enamel does not crack. You also need to enamel both sides of the dial to even the stress out, for the back sides most enamelers save their waste enamel, that is bits that missed what they are enameling when sifting it on that has mixed with other colours. Not much modern written material on enameling watch dials, but lots on enameling jewelry which would give you a good place to start.

Thank you for the confirmation.  I've watched a few videos of jewelry applications and the enamel never seems to set flat and true, and they're using a kiln.  The final product is domed, undesirable for a good-looking watch dial.  Also, the absolute crisp white color seems to require enamel containing arsenic, which is not readily available.  The only white I see for sale is "off white."  Lastly, I have no kiln, so I don't think I'd fare better with a torch.  

I'll save the torch for bluing steel. 

  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, vinn3.  Maybe I'll look into it. 

For the time frame ahead, I have an ETA 6497 on the way.  I'm going to make hands for it I think before anything else.  That would give me a tremendous amount of confidence.  Each of the 3 hands, blued with heat.      

Edited by SparkyLB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...
On 2/8/2020 at 2:48 AM, SparkyLB said:

Upon reading this again, it seems that the gum tragacanth is just the adhesive to capture the ceramic powder.  The coarse metal mesh is what the item to be enameled rests on.  I read it wrong, it seems. 

I'll pick up some white enamel powder and go from there. 

You can use wallpaper glue or a special liquid such as Thompson. ( klyr fire )

 

 

3c871bc1ba58ea732e5bb794cf0f2209.jpg

80c072e47eaa0d98b960bf23cc0054c8.jpg

ab0a196bc4ae525f70962feb7ba57e0f.jpg

69441028_932165883818966_5789417715152191488_n.jpg

Edited by EnamelDial
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I need to see photos of the whole movement before I comment. 
    • Hi @Jon, so, from one extreme to another the beat error is 0.1(min.pos) to 0.2(msx.pos), and as you mentioned the rate does up and down dramatically. Also checked the position of the collet, and the collet is not central to the jewel on the balance cock. Balance moves freely, per my understanding.   So, after 24h the ampl. fell down by approx 20 deg, which I would assume is expected. After adjusting the endshake I believe I gained around +10 deg. of balance movement. Which is great, and overall the balance is not at 220'ish deg.   What I did next, some might think is non-orthodox, but was wort a try. I too the mainspring out, checked again for endshake and if the pin moves freely, and cleaned everything. Usually when installing the mainspring I would use some barrel grease on the barrel walls, install the spring and put a 2-3 drops of D-5 oil on top of the wounded spring and in the places where the arbor sits. This time I took the spring and applied a ultra this coat of Molykote Dx paste on the whole spring, before installing it in to the barrel, and added some oil to the arbor as usual.  The result improved, at a full wound the balance produces about 230-237 deg. @JohnR725 I'm getting closer to 300 😃   What I am noticing, there is a fluctuation in amplitude. With time it would rise and drop about total 8-10 deg in an interval about 2 minutes. I assumed this ruled out the power transfer from the barrel itself. So I took the gear train out, cleaned and lubed. 
    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
×
×
  • Create New...