Jump to content

6498 Hairspring - Can It Be Saved?


BlakeL

Recommended Posts

I got lucky and was able to find somebody locally selling a #18 K&D set.  It's about an hour and a half away but is a very good price and doesn't look to be missing very many parts.  The picture is not great but it does look as if some of the parts have rust but hopefully will clean up fine.  I'll be picking it up next Sunday.

 

 

KandD18.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...

I got back to working on the 6498 last night.  Fixing hairsprings is so delicate I find myself correcting the bends/twists then right after making it much worse. I was able to fix one of the worst twists but now I have a very slight downward bend towards the end that you can't really see and at some point when trying to grab the spring I bent the inner bronze ring so that if I mount it does not lay perpendicular.  It might have been like this from the beginning but I have a feeling it was me.  Any suggestions?

post-453-0-78286600-1424695151_thumb.jpg

Edited by BlakeL
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I struggle with hairsprings although better than I was. I found the last time I wanted to bend up a touch I put the hairspring on a staking tool & put it where I wanted to bend over a hole and pushed VERY GENTLY with some Dumont 5 tweezers and it worked.

Edited by clockboy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good idea, I might have to try that since I have a staking set now.  It should be pretty easy to finish off the end but that bend in the inner ring scares me but I'll have to try since a replacement won't be cheap if I can even find one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like I said me and hairsprings just don,t get on.  But this method worked but you have to be very gentle with it.

I see a vid where a guy was making a hairspring overcoil and he pushed the hairspring into a tube that he had made which is the same principle.

Edited by clockboy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I spent some more time with this over the weekend and I've given up for now to save my sanity. I'll keep this movement for parts and come back to it later when I have some more experience and a better 10x loupe. I found another cheap 6498 pocket watch on eBay for around $50 that is working. It does have some rust on the ratchet wheel but i can swap that out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That's very interesting information. I haven't tried to see if my bombé jewel holes have olive holes but I think I should be able to tell on the larger jewels at least. See if I get a chance to have a look later today. This little story was very comforting to read for a "bungler" like myself. That success isn't a given even for a pro. Thanks for sharing!
    • I forgot that I said I would do that. Will take some tomorrow and post them up post haste.
    • I've seen some really nice early 20th century pieces where all the jewels, including center wheel, were convex. Definitely to reduce friction. It can be quite hard to tell if a jewel has olive holes, especially on small sizes, but that again reduces friction- as well as accommodates small misalignments better. Why they aren't used more often? I imagine it was found that at a certain point in the train the actual advantage became negligible, and the added cost on high production movements is why it's not seen on those, just higher-end pieces.   I did an experiment on a little 5x7"' AS 1012 a few years back. These things run OK sometimes, but often are absolute dogs. And AS made gajillions of them. I had a NOS novelty watch in for a service, ran OK flat, massive drop in amplitude vertical. Made like 3 staffs for it trying different pivot sizes, no change. Tried high quality (not Seitz) convex/olive jewels, no change- the original were flat, but could have been olive hole. Same for the pallet fork, then escape wheel, no change. Probably had 20 hours in the watch, new staff and new hole jewels through the escape wheel, no difference in running. Just a dog of a movement. But if I were making a watch I would use them, just because.
    • When Nicklesilver mentioned the use of them on non coned pivots on older high end watches closer to the escapement.  That suggested to me  probably fourth wheels and possibly third wheels. The square shoulder rotatating on the much smaller surface area of a dome as opposed to a flat jewel surface. I'm curious as to why they are not used predominantly?
    • That's what I thought, but as I said, it makes sense. See if any of our pros will have something to add.
×
×
  • Create New...