Jump to content

Dial (face) cleaning?


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, wls1971 said:

I've used all sorts of paper a high gloss photo paper printed on a inkjet does a good job of looking like an enamel dial. I use a canon inkjet there is a setting on it that puts more ink onto the paper for the blacks, Epson heavy weight matte paper is fantastic for  non glossy printed dials it has a very fine surface finish to the paper.

Yes I have a Canon printer, and as you say it does a good job of the printing, I also laminate them which give a good effect. I would like to try the version that Mark uses, but if it has to be printed on the special paper with a laser printer, I will need to get printed elsewhere, which is not a problem, but would be good if it could be done on the inkjet..

Just found this on Ebay for the inkjet printer.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Water-Slide-Decal-Paper-A4-INKJET-Waterslide-Transfer-Paper-Various-pack-sizes/254323402991?

Len

Edited by Lenj
Added text
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello,

I'm just getting into old watches, so saw this post while looking for how to clean up the dial. One idea that hasn't been mooted is granny's old recipe of aluminium foil (or a foil cake/pie dish) and washing soda. You put anything metal onto the foil tray and add washing soda and medium-warm water. It sets up a chemical reaction that takes some of the tarnish and grot off the metal parts. I'm interested in trying a pencil rubber, but also plan to use the washing soda technique. https://orchid.ganoksin.com/t/tarnish-remover-use-aluminium-foil/28028

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone have any advice on cleaning watch dials and hands?  Since these represent the majority of a watches personality, any degradation would be glaringly obvious.  I've tried several methods on junk dials with varying levels of dissatisfaction.  I have seen the before and after photos of some remarkable transformations by other hobbyists (I'm not using the word "hobbyist" in a derogatory manner, my hat is truly off to them).  I have several watches that didn't deserve what time has taken from them but I don't want to make things any worse.

Thanks.

Shane

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some dials can be cleaned some can't. Some should some shouldn't.

Also, you can't use the SAME technique on all dials. It depends what their issue is. Some have had water/humidity problems, some have patina, etc. It also matters how they were made in the first place. How many layers of paint, laquer, what technique was used for indices and writting, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello,

this is nice forum I found yesterday. This particular topic is really interesting, thanks to everyone who shared their experience.

I see that there was no updates here for a couple of years. I'll put here some YouTube videos I found interesting. Maybe it will be also helpful for somebody.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgpFeoykwTU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixJYb2Z2YTQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kt1nmSqS-Ps - printing new dial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6R-uNqjfjc - Seiko restoration with such printing

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Happy SBS!,  I have two 6139 pogue watches, in various repairable (hopefully) stages but I’m a little uneasy about the dials. 
The first one looks like it’s oxidizing under the finish, not so sure about saving it. The other is a bit of a mess also but it’s a ‘resist’ dial and I’d like to use it.  does it seem possible to clean it up without losing the finish?  The first dial I’m thinking I’ll have to replace though.  

 

 

970A0DFD-016D-4B70-9D54-4560D490C7AA.jpeg

0E1591F5-37C1-4B6A-B0AE-F5BC5AE881D3.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

How about replacing with aftermarket dial.

I agree with you but Seiko collectors would be dismayed just at the idea. They prefer original battered parts, especially when they have something like a writing or other sought detail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dial1.thumb.jpg.41c3332357f19a20405896124a60c83f.jpg

The corrosion looks like a major issue to me, and probably necessitates a new dial. 
However if you are feeling creative, the actual structure of the dial looks sound.
If it is possible to remove the indices and the other dial furnishings, then you could clean off the current badly damaged dial and re-create it in Inkscape, per this thread.

 

The process is not simple, but nor is it impossible, and given the current state of the dial, I would argue you have little to loose by experimenting with it (although others may disagree).

Weigh up the cost of a new old stock replacement, a second hand dial, and your time and artistic talents, and see which option(s) you feel would best suit your needs.

If I were going down the custom dial route, I would start by salvaging the accents etc, then strip off the old finish, and see how bad the underlying surface is. If necessary, then polish and re-brush the surface, then airbrush on a coloured laquer (in several very thin coats). Create and apply two decals, one to the dial, one to the subdial, seal with a couple of very thin clear coats, then re-fit the indices etc.

A replacement dial is obviously a lot less work, but a custom one might be an interesting learning experience.

Edited by AndyHull
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, yankeedog said:

It looks like you found one !

Indeed. One that can succeed in negotiating the steep curve to learning and then invest in professional-level, single-unit dial refurbishing and reprint, well deserves the commercial success that can be enjoying by offering service in paper-thin market.

BTW. I don't think that "pogue-like" dial finishing can be credibly achieved by painting. More like an well crafted base sunbursting and then anodizing technique, of course I may be wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are both most certainly 'shot'.

Or in many Seiko collectors terms, oozing 'patina' :biggrin:

I would highly recommend, unless the watch itself is a franken of any degree that you do not try to refinish or clean the dial. Get an aftermarket by all means but keep the original wrapped and safe for such a time that you might want to sell it, that way you can sell the watch with an am dial but supply the original.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, LonglineOjoe said:

With the badly oxidized dial I’m probably heading in that direction. It’s a shame though. :unsure:
the second dial I’m going to take some time with and see if I can’t clean it up somewhat. I really don’t mind the scars and wounds of use, it’s the ones of negligence I’m trying to remedy. 

Unfortunately there is nothing you can do with these Seiko dials. And to replace with anything but original would be sacrilege. You can find a parts watch with a nicer dial.

FYI none of these dials are a true pogue dial. Pogue dials were from a USA market 6139-6005 it said water resist but it just said automatic under the 12 and 17J above the 6. The JDM models said chronograph Automatic with no 17J. And the reason why these dials are so hard to find is they made this dial when they switched to the 6139-6009 model in early 72’. But according to a receipt pogue purchased the watch 6/13/72 although serial number dates to 1971 which falls in line with a 6005 the dial is pictured with 6009T. He did sate he had work done twice, assuming the dial was changed which is highly unlikely, he may have a 6005 with a 6009T dial. So there is so much debate over this. We say the 6005 is a true pogue because that’s what the serial number says and if they act did make the 6005 with the water resist dial it would have been done in later 71 and early 72, before switching caseback to 6009 which also falls in line with the serial number.  they dropped it all together in late 72 and just had it on caseback. So this explains why its so dam hard to get a true pogue 6139-6005. You literally have to find one dated within a short period of production. Too bad pogue didn’t buy it in 1970 there would be much more on the market.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may be able to dissolve it by soaking in weak acid. The green looks like verdigris, presumably because the brass dial blank has corroded through the varnish.

This is always a risk, but doesn't look like you have much to lose.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, rodabod said:

You may be able to dissolve it by soaking in weak acid. The green looks like verdigris, presumably because the brass dial blank has corroded through the varnish.

This is always a risk, but doesn't look like you have much to lose.

Thank you. I will try with vinegar or lemon first. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, poolen0123 said:

Thank you. I will try with vinegar or lemon first. 

I would be careful using anything acidic, you really run the risk of removing more of the writing on the dial, esp since some of is already coming off.

there are two things you can use that are safe. Calcium Lime Rust (CLR) and WD-40. I like to do a cleaning with CLR first then finish off with the WD-40. It’s safe on writing and varnish, u have to do some wiping, i suggest using a make up remover pad to gently wipe off the lime. Use the WD-40 to remove any CLR residue 

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, saswatch88 said:

I would be careful using anything acidic, you really run the risk of removing more of the writing on the dial, esp since some of is already coming off.

there are two things you can use that are safe. Calcium Lime Rust (CLR) and WD-40. I like to do a cleaning with CLR first then finish off with the WD-40. It’s safe on writing and varnish, u have to do some wiping, i suggest using a make up remover pad to gently wipe off the lime. Use the WD-40 to remove any CLR residue 

 

Thank you. But can't find any CLR in my country. What can be alternative of it? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...