Jump to content

Rado minute / hour hands not turning

RyanGreerMcGilloway
 Share

Recommended Posts

RyanGreerMcGilloway Watch Enthusiast

RyanGreerMcGilloway

Posted
Posted

Hi all, 

 

just received this from aregentina. 
 

Want working initially, so I removed the balance & pallet fork and and wound the crown to give all wheels a good run to clean out any crap.

 

it was then working great, however, I ha noticed this afternoon that the hour / minute hands were not turning but the second was. 
 

can anyone think of a reason and fix? 

image.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Hi   I still think aaC58 is right, the fault you describe is indicative of the canon pinion slipping  the cure is to tighten the canon.  A possible is that the hour wheel is damaged or worn, In either event the dial and hands have to come off for investigation.  cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Marc Distinguished Member

Marc

Posted
Posted

Loose canon pinion.

20 minutes ago, RyanGreerMcGilloway said:

I removed the balance & pallet fork and and wound the crown to give all wheels a good run to clean out any crap.

This is a really bad idea. Even if all of the pivots are properly lubricated you are spinning everything up to way beyond its design speed, and if the pivots are dry or are contaminated with micro dust particles then you're just going to grind down the bearing surfaces and cause unnecessary damage. Further more you will cause the hands to spin very fast, accelerating and decelerating them via the slipping interface of the canon pinion, and this could well have caused the canon pinion to loosen up to the point where it now no longer does its job.

Winding just a small amount of power into the m/s with the pallet fork out so that you can see that the train is free is fine, but spinning the movement up fast enough to "clear out any crap" is kind of asking for trouble.

 

22 minutes ago, RyanGreerMcGilloway said:

The crown moves the hand very freely. As nothing was wrong. 

There should be some resistance felt at the crown when you set the hands.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Hi Ryan  Can you post a few pictures of the problem.  Try fitting the hands with no dial attached, was there a dial washer on the hour wheel to take up the slack between the dial and front plate ?.  I dont yet understand why the hands dont fit as the top of the hour wheel and cannon have not changed unless some damage has occured in re fitting. Inspect both closely for burrs or out of shape.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RyanGreerMcGilloway Watch Enthusiast

RyanGreerMcGilloway

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi all,

 

thanks for your help? I realised I had lost the cannon pinion and found it on the floor. All of the above issues have now been cured. 
 

i now have another problem, the balance runs but it stops after a short period of time., it was running fine in the past through.

 

does anyone have another cures? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Jon
      Introducing myself

      By Jon · Posted

      Hi there  
    • Jon
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Jon · Posted

      Put the movement in a movement holder and it will be supported as you push down on the setting lever post to release the winding stem. Make sure the post is over the shoulder of the movement holder so what you are pressing down on is supported. As a general rule, hold the movement and not the movement holder. Replace the hands when the movement isn't in the case and support the centre jewel (if it has one) on a hard surface or staking block when replacing the hands to stop the jewel accidentally moving or even coming out. A dedicated movement holder with a central jewel support is even better, but pricey
    • JohnR725
      Main spring

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      It might help us if we knew which watch like model number.
    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • Jon
      Main spring

      By Jon · Posted

      I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is. I've attached a lesson regarding mainsprings, focussing on the size and strength of the spring within the barrel, you might find helpful. Unfortunately it is a PDF converted from a PowerPoint presentation, but only a slide was lost that was originally a video of fitting a mainspring   Lesson 5 The mainspring.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...