Jump to content

Zenith 126-6 .....HELP


Eflitzer

Recommended Posts

Notice how the dial side is much bigger than the backside? Also the case screws are pulling the movement back so that's not the way it would come out. We need a really good side view picture to see what has to come off whether it's only the crystal or whether there is a ring  holding the crystal in place perhaps. Pictures a little fuzzy but looks like a button rather than a screw to remove the stem. So move the stem and the two case screws and then whatever has to come off on the front and the movement will fall out the front side.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, I removed the stem and the two case screws and the movement will turn freely but will not come out through the front.

I will post additional pics with the crystal removed. Thanks for the reply I was hoping someone had experience with this watch.

RT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Problem solved...I was mounting it under a micro desk cam and I can see where the top separates .... not visible under the

naked eye, appears this watch is a virgin and was not mistreated as there are no marks from previous  separations attempts.

Thanks...RT

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Two pins or screwdrivers angled out slightly, pressing through from the barrel centre from the opposite side so they contact just clear of the hole in the lid? eg. Strap pin driver needles or similar.
    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
×
×
  • Create New...