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By tomassatka · Posted
I am new to watch restoration. So far i was repairing two watches seiko 7002 and seiko 6309. I manage to dissasemble, clean all parts except balance wheel in isopropyl 99% and then assemble and lubricate with proper oil. My cleaning included clean of mainspring and in case of seiko 6309 replacing with new generic mainspring. When i partially check once i setup the train bridge and move main barel i can see train wheel nicely move and escapement wheel is spinning freely. After i add palet fork and then put back balance wheel the movement doesnt start by itself. It always needs like a small pinch to it by tweezers. And then it runs. But i can feel that the main spring is already wound so it needs some power to run. When i check on timegrapher by changing the regulator i can get to +-10s/day amplitude of 260 and horible error beat of 6ms Watch runs maybe 8h and then stops. Where do i repeat my mistake? Without any feedback i dont know what do i do wrong so hoping somebody could point me to right direction. Thank you Tomas -
Hello everyone, Carlos here from Spain. Looking forward to learning some things! -
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Ok, next one! First, the cannon pinion! Remember, this is the decentralized cannon pinion with integrated cannon pinion (and it goes where the green arrow indicates): First challenge: how to disassemble!? - do not use a Presto tool with its "feet" against the spokes/rim of the wheel! It'll bend the wheel. - using a scalpel or razor blade to slide between wheel and cannon pinion is also not working well --> I cut a triangular wedge into a spare barrel lid (of course, any other thin sheet of metal will do). Then I slide it between the two steel pinions, like so: Now I can use a presto tool to lift off the cannon pinion. Make sure the wedge is properly between the two steel pinions! No force should be on the brass wheel. Clean. In my case, the cannon pinion needed some tightening: Grease the staff of the (decentralized) centre wheel. I used 9504. To combined the two parts again, on the staking set, make sure the top punch fits over the whole staff of the centre wheel. It'll protrude from the cannon pinion and you don't want to punch on the staff.. Secondly, note that the wheel seems to "hover" over the staking block. You want to chose a hole on the staking block that just fits the green circle here, and NOT the red one (if you do the latter, you may punch out the staff from the wheel...) Push. Done. Now over to the barrel assembly. I distribute a thin layer of breaking grease around the barrel wall (I used 8217) New spring in (this is 0.70 x 0.1025 x 375, item number 266771 at CousinsUK) remember that the square part of the arbor points upwards close lid. then I oil with HP1300. Epilame treatment of pallet stones... ...and escape wheel (full submersion and then removing epilame again from the pivots) I take advantage of the balance still being installed on the movement (from cleaning) to oil the balance jewels on both sides of the movement. Just two pictures. It should be clear otherwise. 9010, of course. Now, disclaimer. Like in the assembly, I realized half-way through assembly, that another order would have been better. So I'll post the pictures in the order that I think is better. So please ignore the presence of some parts that were already installed in my less efficient, actual assembly process. I suggest starting with the keyless works before installing barrel bridge, train and automatic works. Why? The "decentralized" centre wheel and cannon pinion is held on the keyless side by a jewel in the cover plate for the keyless works. If you don't have that installed first, it's making the installation of the barrel bridge a bit tricky. So, first the pictures of the keyless works assembly. HP1300 on the posts (ignore presence of centre wheel here) add respective wheels and the seat for the other post place the pinions/wheels for the winding stem setting lever with some 9504 setting lever and stem replaced and adding some more 9504 (I spread this amount around by turning the stem while holding the oiler there) placing the yoke, adding some 9504 on the sliding points (excess will be removed later with rodico) and then the yoke spring unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures of the next steps, so I'm borrowing pics from disassembly. set lever jumper with 9504 as indicated and a bit of 9504 here combine the two parts of the crown wheel and the winding wheel and add HP1300 between them as indicated then add HP1300 on the seat and install them install the cover plate turn movement over add the tiniest amount of HP1300 to this rim (or don't, but don't let it flow over) combine ratchet wheel and barrel and replace them jointly (to get ratchet wheel into the right spot immediately and not smear the oil on the aforementioned rim). HP1300 on the arbor pivot as indicated. place wheels and then the bridge now the train wheels the 2-66 movement has this unusual fixed cap jewel for the escape wheel. I oil it from below and push the 9010 through with a sharpened oiler. Inspect size and position of oil circle from the top side. install train bridge I choose to proceed with the automatic works now first the secondary click (for auto winding intermediate driving wheel). the tiny spring needs to go through a small hole where indicated view from the other side of the movement place the intermediate winding wheel now there's this special wheel which which disengages the automatic works when the watch is wound automatically (same as JLC 889 that I serviced recently). The slipping "arms" need some grease (or oil). I used 9504 I then spread it around by gently moving the arms around (clockwise in below picture) place the wheel and install bridge I decided to use HP1300 on all these pivots (escape wheel pivot was oiled previously with 9010). I prefer the higher viscosity oils to avoid any creeping. Happy to drop a few degrees of amplitude for that. turn movement over and install primary click at the ratchet wheel very light use of HP1300 (sorry, screw not pictured) now back to the keyless works again small amount of HP1300 tiny bit of grease as indicated secure with screw and place spring (careful with this one.... it's a highly qualified candidate for the Swiss space programme) arm the spring and secure with screw dial side oiling with HP1300 (red) for everything except the escape wheel (9010, blue) I add a tiny bit of 9504 to the click/teeth here turn over again. pallet fork. as usual, I install the balance, let it run a few minutes. remove the balance. oil the exit pallet stone with 9415. one small drop every 4-5 teeth. then the rotor. NOTE: I didn't oil any of the four ball bearings! This is up to debate.... in some service manuals across different brands, ball bearings are oiled (with 9010 or Lubeta V106 or 9415), in other manuals they aren't. I chose to not oil because the watch case is barely dust-proof. And if any dust gets inside, it'll attract to oil. If it gets on the ball bearings, it'll quickly clog up. But happy to receive other opinions. and the complete train side then back to dial side again. Oiling the inside of the "false" cannon pinion with HP1300. then the outside with HP1300 and place hour wheel and dial washer a bit of regulating. Note from disassembly that the pallet stones lock was a bit excessive. The amplitude could probably be increased by moving them inwards a bit. But I'm happy with this result as it is and will let it be. Since I haven't done pallet stone manipulation yet, I don't want to practice on a movement where spare parts are extremely rare and expensive (the company has been out of business for about 50 years). dial (two screws) and hands on 🙂 That's my new baby! -
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