Jump to content

Rolex 116610LN randomly stops


CLB521

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, Colditz said:

Thanks CLB. As I do like Rolex watches although I prefer Omega coaxial, very frustrating to have a bent balance staff on such a classic watch. Did you see the original bent staff? Was it replaced?  If so the repairer should have shown you the bent one. Did you see it?

The oils drying out would take quite some time as the oils used are of a very high quality. How old is the the watch?

When I viewed Marks strip down of the Rolex GMT master Mark pointed out that the movement had been over oiled. This could be another possible cause for the inetermittent stopping.

I hope you get this sorted. Please keep us posted on developments.

Thanks for the support.  I was not shown the bent balance staff.  I was just told it was bent and replaced.  The watch was purchased from an AD in 2018 and I purchased it in late 2018 from the grey dealer.  I dont believe the oils are dried out.  Not on a watch so new.  Over oiling could be possible and could happen to anyone.

Since I left the local repair ship the watch has been working well.  No stops so far.  He did de-magnetize it which may have fixed it?  Maybe whatever was binding things up loosened when he opened up the watch?  Time will tell if the problem is fixed or not.

I will definitely let everyone know if more problems persist.

Thank you all for your help and advice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So once again the watch has stopped around 8:30 at night.  I have pulled out the crown to keep the movement stopped.  I am going to reach out to the dealer and see if he wants to take it back in.  Hoping that by keeping the movement stopped whatever is knocking it loose won't get it moving again. 

I am noticing the watch stops around the same time  (around 8:30 at night or between 7-8 in the morning) so I wonder if a gear at a specific time is causing a problem. Can anyone confirm if any specific gear is regulated or has a 12 or 24 hour single rotation?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1-Stops at 8.30hr or 20.30 or both?

2- If at 20.30 hr, a fault is in at date jump mech. 

3-If at 8.30 fault is at canon pinion and hour wheel.

Hands rubbing is unlikely to be the issue here, since two watchmakers have taken a look at the watch.

Best wishes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, CLB521 said:

So once again the watch has stopped around 8:30 at night. 

That is what I was telling you before. A watch that had stopped once will stop again.

Dry oil (that certainly is not the case here, Rolex uses synthetic oils lasting a minimum of 7 years), or magnetization do not  stop watches.

Do you remember if it was stopping at the same time even before you sent it for repair? Is so, that indicates you have been lied about replacing the balance staff, which is demanding work, never taken easily.

The good news is that there are (few) reputable, independent watchmakers able to repair without overcharging based on you watch brand and price. Then draw you own conclusions.

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

If the fault is at canon pinion or hour wheel, it should pick up and go as you advance the hands past the fault. 

I have tried advancing the hands when I the watch is stopped and it does not make a difference to get it running again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, CLB521 said:

I have tried advancing the hands when I the watch is stopped and it does not make a difference to get it running again.

That makes sense. When you advance time with the crown, the gear train will move, because it's firmly stopped (or "hacked"), and the hand wheel move independently thanks to the cannon pinion slipping on the center wheel.
Then what happens is that eventually but randomly, the mainspring force wins over whatever fault and get it ticking again.
Again, if don't trust anymore your seller you should be looking a a reputable watchmaker.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

So after a few weeks waiting for my dealer's watch repair guy to return, he called me today to say that the local guy did something to the timing which required a full service on the watch.  He said that when he had the watch the first time he did a full service on it as well.  I am getting the watch back tomorrow and hopefully this fix will be permanent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Snap! I recently finished my Gruen 510 movement - though the case for mine is in a rather sad state; I'm going to try re-plating it (in nickel, it's not a gold one).   Re. the screws, I got a few of the one gram mixed batches from ebay. I've only needed a couple of screws for things so far, both rare, minuscule types - but both in the mix, after enough time sorting through them! The ones such as normal bridge screws are quite common in those lots.  
    • Two pins or screwdrivers angled out slightly, pressing through from the barrel centre from the opposite side so they contact just clear of the hole in the lid? eg. Strap pin driver needles or similar.
    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
×
×
  • Create New...