Jump to content

Timex M24 Repair Issue (Problem with balance?)


dups68

Recommended Posts

Hello all, 

I'm new to the forum and watch repair in general and was hoping someone could point me in the right direction on the issues I'm having with these movements.

I received the two watches for parts/repair hoping to repair them back to working order. I cleaned the movements following guides online/the repair manual, lubricated and found both movements still not working. They both take a wind but the balance wheel refuses to oscillate. Looking through a loupe I see that the impulse peg is sitting outside the "fork" pallet lever. On one movement it sits to the left and the other it sits to the right. Looking at some other timex movements I have, the peg seems to sit between the "fork" while the watch is not running.

 

The balances rotate freely in one direction when rotating with my finger (one only moves clockwise, the other only moves counter clockwise). However, both will not rotate in the opposite direction. After about a full turn in the free direction, it seems like the peg moves to the right location and I can cycle the pallet and escape wheel by moving the balance back and forth with my finger. Once I remove my finger from the balance, it snaps back to the point where it can no longer move in both directions.

 

Anyone have any ideas on this one? Are the movements toast or should the still be repairable?

 

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, dups68 said:

Are the movements toast or should the still be repairable?

I haven't seen one yet that wasn't repairable. I suspect that they have had a bit of rough treatment.

Check the hairspring is sitting true and flat.

If so, then move the balance wheel gently in the direction it is free to travel.


next gently push the fork in to the same side, then allow the balance pin to rest in the fork, now carefully release the fork and see if everything now works as expected.

 

If the hairspring is distorted, you will need to address that first.

If the balance wheel pivots are  not sitting in the vconic cups, then you will need to fix that first.

I think a few closeup pictures would go a long way towards helping  us with any further diagnosis.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi The problem is known as over banked, what happened was as the balance swung onto the banking pin the watch received a shock this caused the fork/pallet to bounce back leaving the impulse pin on the wrong side of the fork/pallet. Follow Andys instructions and it should pop back in.  In theory this should not happen as the guard pin on the fork/pallet should stop it but if the balance "V" conic bearings are not adjusted correctly,too high or too low or are loose it can.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi   As Andy said move the balance to its free side up to the banking pin and hold there next move the fork/pallet to wards the same side untill the impulse pin on the balance engages the fork/pallet. Use no force at all. If it engages ok without pressure release the balance and now it should work. If you cannot engage the impulse pin with the for/pallet using this method then undo the moveable "V"conic bearing untill you are able to manouvre the impulse pin into position then tighten the "V"conic bearing until the minimum of shake but still free to rotate the balance. Do not over tighten The "V"conic bearing..       I assume that you have the service manual for the watch,  If not go to  'google drive'   they are all on there   cheers

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help. I was able to get the pins back in the fork. One movement still isn't running but the other is sorta working. The one thats working is running super slow and weakly. The oscillation of the balance seems slow and the swing is only around a quarter rotation, where I've read I should be getting at least a half turn during the oscillation.

When resetting the "working" impulse pin I accidently knocked the fork without rotating the balance and the impulse pin engaged. I re-disengauged the impulse pin, rotated the balance, and reset the impulse pin, but now I'm thinking that maybe I rotated it the wrong direction compared to what I should have originally done. Would this make a difference? Or is there something else which could cause the slow movement? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, dups68 said:

is there something else which could cause the slow movement?

Dirt is the most likely cause of a sluggish movement. Did you give the whole mechanism a long thorough soaking in lighter fluid?

You shouldn't need to disassemble it, just give it a good slunge. The process has been described a few times here on WRT. This technique applies *only* to Timex pin levers. Other watches wont be quite so forgiving about this kind of treatment.

One other thing to watch out for. When oiling the pivots, use oil sparingly. A tiny drop applied with the very tip of a sewing needle (or better still a proper watch oiler) is all that is needed. If you over oil, particularly if you over oil the balance, escape wheel or fork, then this will be counter productive. You do need *some* oil, since the metal on metal pivots in bushings mechanism will have far higher friction without oiling. If you don't have access to watch oil, you could use a light oil like sewing machine oil, but a proper quality watch oil is way better.

You might get some better performance by oiling the v-conic balance pivots. Don't get any oil on the hairspring, or damage it in the process. Of you do get oil on the hairspring, it will probably start sticking to itself. This will probably have the opposite effect to the one you might expect, as it will typically cause the movement to run way too fast, rather than too slow. If you get oil on the hairspring, wash it off again with another trip for the whole mechanism through the lighter fluid bath.

The pins on the fork, and the faces of the teeth on the escape wheel may also benefit from the merest whiff of oil too.
 

Can you post pictures of the balances as they currently sit?

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, AndyHull said:

Dirt is the most likely cause of a sluggish movement. Did you give the whole mechanism a long thorough soaking in lighter fluid?

I gave them about a 20 minute soak in lighter fluid before I started trying to get them running. I might have been a little to excessive in oiling the vconic on them. I'm going to re-soak tonight and try again.

Do you think that ultrasonic cleaning would be beneficial? I was going to by small Mason jars to place the movements and lighter fluid in the place them into an ultrasonic clearer to try and better loosen up any dirt and gunk inside.

The first 4 pics are the movement running slowly and the others are the movement that wouldn't run 

 

 

20200128_060307.jpg

20200128_060314.jpg

20200128_060359.jpg

20200128_060421_HDR.jpg

20200128_060513_HDR.jpg

20200128_060537_HDR.jpg

20200128_060548.jpg

20200128_060556.jpg

20200128_060603.jpg

20200128_060615.jpg

20200128_060628_HDR.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmm tricky.. they both look as though the hairspring may not be entirely flat, but the pictures are not that clear.
The one that doesn't run, does the balance swing freely, and does the fork move back and forth (albeit for a short period before it stops)?

40 minutes ago, dups68 said:

I'm going to re-soak tonight and try again.

Try that first, don't oil just yet, and lets see if they actually run.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, AndyHull said:

Hmm tricky.. they both look as though the hairspring may not be entirely flat, but the pictures are not that clear.
The one that doesn't run, does the balance swing freely, and does the fork move back and forth (albeit for a short period before it stops)?

I think one of the hairsprings was sitting a little crooked. I'll try to take some better pictures tonight. How would I straighten it out? Do I have to remove the balance and re-pin the spring? 

On the one that doesn't run the balance moves when rotated with a finger but won't turn when wound.

 

Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, dups68 said:

I think one of the hairsprings was sitting a little crooked. I'll try to take some better pictures tonight. How would I straighten it out? Do I have to remove the balance and re-pin the spring? 

On the one that doesn't run the balance moves when rotated with a finger but won't turn when wound.

Better pictures would help us diagnose the hairsprings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a bunch of photos. Hopefully these show it a little better. I'm going to break the photos into 3 post. The first post slow running. Second post not running, third is another I pulled out where the spring looked really off. Is there a guide somewhere on correcting the mainsprings? 

20200128_195146.jpg

20200128_195210.jpg

20200128_195218.jpg

20200128_195409.jpg

20200128_195419.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, JerseyMo said:

are you workig on a 105 0r 106? oh I see the picts now - that is a 24

 

 

The first two were 24s and the third is a 25

 

Edit: Good eye you nailed all of them

 

Is there an easy way to reposition the hairsprings? 

Edited by dups68
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah okay was hoping to avoid that but I'll give it a shot if I have to. I saw an old post of yours on removing the balance/hairspring:

Once removed (and possibily demagnetized), should the hairspring just settle back into place? 

 

Also, the the hairsprings on the two #24 movements look off to you? 

Edited by dups68
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How good are your fine motor skills?

 

 

Watch those two videos, and you will get a good feel for what is involved. The secret is to make tiny adjustments, and take your time. Patience and care. When you start going cross eyed, and feel like throwing in the towel, take a break and come back to it later when you are fresh.

@JerseyMo may have these balances available as spares, but learning to fix them is a worth while watch repair skill to develop.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, JerseyMo said:

This is a good example of how I got deeper into collecting and repairing.  You need a part you buy a lot. So one gets fixed and now you have more to fix.  :)

That sounds familiar, I just bought a job lot of "small seconds" hands, because I needed one, and a tube of about 100 random ones came up for lest than the cost of buying just one. I will try to resist the temptation to buy 100 more watches to use up the rest of the hands. :P

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • just one little minor reminder here this isn't your normal balance wheel.  pages 17 and 18 are what you really want to be looking at. normally studs don't turn but this watch has the etachron system designed for lots of adjustment. Personally I would try to rotate the stud back to where it's supposed to be. If you're lucky you didn't actually bend it at the stud it just looks really bad as the stud has been rotated grossly out of position.. I think things will look a lot better if you put the hairspring back where it's supposed to be by rotating the stud. it's hard to tell if you actually did bend it at the stud or not we won't know until you rotate the stud back more or less where it's supposed to be. Then you want to pay attention to the manual of how to put the hairspring back in the regulator pins because yes they rotate also and they rotated specific directions otherwise bad things will happen to your hairspring. so initially you can open up the regulator as wide as it can go and don't worry about closing it until thing everything is right then you can close them a little bit
    • I need to see photos of the whole movement before I comment. 
    • Hi @Jon, so, from one extreme to another the beat error is 0.1(min.pos) to 0.2(msx.pos), and as you mentioned the rate does up and down dramatically. Also checked the position of the collet, and the collet is not central to the jewel on the balance cock. Balance moves freely, per my understanding.   So, after 24h the ampl. fell down by approx 20 deg, which I would assume is expected. After adjusting the endshake I believe I gained around +10 deg. of balance movement. Which is great, and overall the balance is not at 220'ish deg.   What I did next, some might think is non-orthodox, but was wort a try. I too the mainspring out, checked again for endshake and if the pin moves freely, and cleaned everything. Usually when installing the mainspring I would use some barrel grease on the barrel walls, install the spring and put a 2-3 drops of D-5 oil on top of the wounded spring and in the places where the arbor sits. This time I took the spring and applied a ultra this coat of Molykote Dx paste on the whole spring, before installing it in to the barrel, and added some oil to the arbor as usual.  The result improved, at a full wound the balance produces about 230-237 deg. @JohnR725 I'm getting closer to 300 😃   What I am noticing, there is a fluctuation in amplitude. With time it would rise and drop about total 8-10 deg in an interval about 2 minutes. I assumed this ruled out the power transfer from the barrel itself. So I took the gear train out, cleaned and lubed. 
    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
×
×
  • Create New...