Jump to content

Watch reassembly difficulty?


Len33

Recommended Posts

To date, what is the most difficult and frustrating watch movement that you have had to reassemble?

Personally, my choice (So far)  would be the Harley Ronda 726 chronograph.

After stripping, cleaning, and reassembly, I discovered that the circuit was faulty and was in need of replacement. 

Luckily, I found one in Los Angeles USA.

The circuit is buried deep inside, so a couple of layers have  to be removed in order

to get at it.

Lining everything up, after, is where the nightmare begins.

Honestly, what a totally frustrating experience and how these things are ever designed and made in the first instance, is way beyond me!

A beautiful watch, though, and the rewards after competion make the effort well worth it.

Well, over to you, what is your nightmare?

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tiny circuit boards present a unique challenge. Other spare parts are often easier to get, but good luck finding a replacement circuit board.

This one comes to mind.

It took far longer, and was far more involved than I had anticipated, and I generally consider myself quite adept at soldering.

My brother in law's HMT also took several sessions to fix, but in fairness, it was completely destroyed, and its value was purely sentimental, so neither was economically worth fixing, but both were very satisfying repairs, and both work perfectly now.

In my limited experience, quartz chronographs followed by small mechanical ladies movements are probably the trickiest in terms of the tiny parts involved.

Edited by AndyHull
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For me, the single most difficult  was a Sicura with the BFG 158 31/7 movement.  Finicky damn movement.  Also, timex m21 and m22 are maddeningly fiddly with everything  under one plate. Quartz movements have to most microscopic of gears add to that the fact the stepper rotors are magnetic and pull everything to them.... all add up top my personal choice to simply swap quartz movements. :pulling-hair-out:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For me, the single most difficult  was a Sicura with the BFG 158 31/7 movement.  Finicky damn movement.  Also, timex m21 and m22 are maddeningly fiddly with everything  under one plate. Quartz movements have to most microscopic of gears add to that the fact the stepper rotors are magnetic and pull everything to them.... all add up top my personal choice to simply swap quartz movements. :pulling-hair-out:


I feel you. I gave up on a Timex M22. Still sitting in a box disassembled
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Nikia said:

 


I feel you. I gave up on a Timex M22. Still sitting in a box disassembled

 

I mangled the pallet arm on an M22 because I put it in a bind trying to keep everything aligned while assembling.  I think I'm driving Jerseymo nuts with my incessant questions in regards to Timex's... lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
×
×
  • Create New...