Bulova Super Seville Bezel/Crystal Replacement

[drewq]

Hi all,

I recently purchased a 1979 Bulova Super Seville (ETA 2834) that needs a bit of work, with the hope of being able to do some of it myself. Watch repair/upgrades look so easy on YouTube, but I am quickly learning I am not adept at it (I removed the stem to clean the crown and watch case, and on reinserting the stem, the movement became stuck in the calendar position and I do not have the confidence to fix it myself)

I have posted two posts looking for advice on finding parts for this watch (1) (2), but so far have had little response.

I am hoping to upgrade the crystal to sapphire with a cyclops, and change the bezel to a new upgraded on. The issue I am running into is sizing. I have read that the Bulova can use Rolex parts, but there is inconsistency with the sizes of parts I can find online. The only post I can find online with measurements of the Bulova has the crystal at 29.2mm/30.2mm. Googling seems to suggest that a Rolex Datejust crystal is 29.5mm/30.5mm. Would 0.3mm difference likely cause fitment issue or is it within tolerances? 

Similar story to above with the bezel. This link suggests that the inner diameter of the Bulova is 30.2mm, yet Rolex bezels seem to be 30.4mm. Would that 0.2mm cause a loose fit? I've seen online that there are bezel resizing tools - are these commonplace? 

My hope is that purchasing a crystal and bezel will reduce the overall cost and potentially guarantee the quality. But equally, I do not want to purchase parts only to discover they do not fit. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

[jdm]

Crystal is easy as you can get generics in all sizes. You need a crystal press for that. Bezel is another story, you need the right size otherwise you may have to do machining work, if even it would suffice. All in all I suggest that you keep this nice watch all original and focus on fixing the calendar that is not difficult after a bit of practice on cheap mov'ts. Perhaps for modding in freedom with a lots of choice look at a Seiko SKX007.

[drewq]

Thanks for the advice.

I want to keep the cyclops on the crystal, so I thought finding the right size with a cyclops in the right place would be a bit tougher. This one has a cyclops placed in the required spot for ETA 2824/2834

The bezel is really tarnished with gold/yellow patches that really bugs me. My hope is that this Rhodium plated bezel would fit.

I have played around with modifying/upgrading an old Raketa, SKX007 and SKX013. Nothing too major, but messing up the keyless works on the Bulova has thrown my confidence. Think I might leave it to an expert for now on.

[Nucejoe]

Set lever left in wind position , should have been brought to set position when pulling the stem out. 

I think you would be creating real headache for yourself with that crystal to glass adventure.

Regards 

[drewq]

I did have the lever in the set position but I think i pressed the release thing too far. I was reading after the fact and learned that you should use a small flat head screwdriver so as not to depress to far and disrupt the keyless works.

There is a few eBay companies restoring Bulova Super Seville's with sapphire glass and selling them for a mint, so I thought it would be easy. I can definitely live with a fresh plexi though if the job is too hard. I think the glass being Plexi is less of a deal breaker than not being able to replace the bezel.

[jdm]

1 hour ago, drewq said:

I want to keep the cyclops on the crystal, so I thought finding the right size with a cyclops in the right place would be a bit tougher. This one has a cyclops placed in the required spot for ETA 2824/2834

Browse STK special crystals on Cousins UK and download their catalogue for comparing all the relevant measurements.
Your crystal doesn't seem to be cracked and it can be restored to be virtually perfect by with simple, delicate polishing.

Edited January 13, 2020 by jdm

[watchweasol]

Hi Drew What probably happened, and I heve been guilty of doing the same is as you say you pressed too hard and have dis lodged the keyless work so making the stem difficult to locate. You will have to remove the movement from the case remove dial and hands, then remove the calendar ring/wheel  and relocate the keyless work, but to do this requires a certain skill level and tools, as you have worked on Raketa and the like you should be ok. I have attached the ETA 2824 tech docs for your interest.

ETA_ETA 2824-2.pdf

[Nucejoe]

I am guilty of the misdemeanor too. ETA 2834 is a hi beat variant of 2824. 

Yes the circular stem hole is beveled , the screwdriver blade should be the widest that can get in the oval hole, so to stop at the bevel.

The watch has a classic vintage look. Wear it in good health. Best wishes joe.

[drewq]

8 hours ago, jdm said:

Your crystal doesn't seem to be cracked and it can be restored to be virtually perfect by with simple, delicate polishing.

There is quite a deep scratch between the 6 and 7 hour markers that I do not think will polish out. I have purchased some Polywatch to give it a try but I am not hopeful.

8 hours ago, watchweasol said:

 I have attached the ETA 2824 tech docs for your interest.

Thank you! I am going to get a quote on having a watchmaker do it for me. If it is outrageously high I might give it a go myself.

7 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

The watch has a classic vintage look. Wear it in good health. Best wishes joe.

Thanks Joe.

[watchweasol]

Hi   whatever you decide to do we will still be here, OK.

[JeffMagic]

I ordered an aftermarket replacement bezel for my Super Seville.  How do I remove the original?

 

Thanks

[Tudor]

I am assuming this uses the Rolex method of assembly (which is a good one).

The crystal presses over the OD of the Rehaut, and then the bezel presses over the OD of the crystal.

The later Sapphire watches have the crystal sitting on top of the rehaut with a plastic ring that engages a slot in the bottom edge of the crystal. The plastic gasket has a lip on the bottom as well, that engages a slot in the OD of the rehaut. Then the bezel (or crystal retainer on diver watches) presses over the plastic bit to smoosh it all together. Those gaskets are a one-shot deal. Always get at least two.

For removal, you need to get under the bezel evenly on at least two sides (four is better). I have a tool for that, since I work on a few Rolex and Omega watches. It has two wedges on opposite sides, set at 45 degrees. They are flat on top (I did additional polishing on them to avoid scratching)and you place the watch bezel down and align the wedges between  bezel and case, so the flat tops of the wedges are against the case top. As you close the "jaws" they wedge between and lift the bezel evenly. Go too far and you destroy the rehaut.

Back in the dark ages I used a drywall razor blade to get it started- working around evenly. Then a caseback knife and old credit card to protect the case. It worked, but it takes 20 minutes to remove a crystal retainer (or bezel on non-diver watches). You may be inclined to try this if you don't want to buy the correct tool.

Once you have it apart, you need to get careful measurements of the rehaut OD; bezel ID and plastic "gasket" thickness and be sure it'll all stack up right, and seal tight.

Best bet is to measure the old crystal and find a suitable replacement. Try "Clark's watch parts" on eBay. They are good people and very helpful.

Personally, I'd keep it plexi. It has a much warmer look and feel. A Tudor 125 crystal might be a good fit, but I have no idea.