Jump to content

Help


Ruairidh

Recommended Posts

I am only 18 and pretty new to the art of watch mechanics and i am currently in the process of repairing a nearly 100 year old JLC. However I am having a awful time trying to remove the movement from the case, tightening the screws makes the movement more loose and vice versa. I was wondering if anyone could lend some assistance on how to part it from the case. Thankyou

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Uh...I don't  mean  to sound  condescending. But if this is your  first watch. Put it aside for now.I was 18 once, as long ago as it was!get some practice  on a few watches of negligible  value. There is a touch to watch repair. I know  from experience  it took  me a while  to learn  it.I ruined  a few early  on through my own impatience  and heavy hand. You are in the right spot to learn..you have chanced upon a great  bunch..however  if you feel  confident  to proceed. Pictures  would  help.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have found that in many cases when recommending to a total beginner to not attack valuable, sophisticated or difficult pieces only achieves the opposite result. I suppose is a male proudness psychology process.

I would love to see the young man here showing better judgement than the various others that certainly regretted their hubris, as they were never seen here again after they used the forum to declare war to an heirloom, rare, or expensive fine watch. 

Edited by jdm
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, Ruairidh said:

Although disappointed I am aware I am talking to far wiser individuals, therefore ill go back to modifying Vostoks for the time being. Thank you all 

As long as you haven't damaged/broken anything you're fine (for now).

The correct way was to: remove the case back > remove the crown and stem > try to screw in the 2/3 screws on the edge of the movement and then simply rotate the movement slightly until the screws fit into those specially made gaps. this way the movement will come out without forcing it. Hope this helps.

I think the watch is from the 40s...

15789106147114486989344468155163.jpg.0f4e303ac1347ad07ee9adf913567df3.thumb.jpg.2d91e1fbe2e22ed1066fe0155212e5ab.jpg

Edited by Chopin
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Ruairidh said:

Although disappointed I am aware I am talking to far wiser individuals, therefore ill go back to modifying Vostoks for the time being. Thank you all 

Should not attempt putting bridges back on, since arbours would not neccessarily fall in corresponding hole. If you must, a prudent procedure can be advised.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...