Jump to content

Haller pu81 electromagnetic pulse skeleton clock


Squiffything

Recommended Posts

Hi Sqiffy  Have you any pictures   I think what you have got is an ATO clock that powers a coil that swings l/r on an arc, can you be more specific as regards damage. The ususall culprit for them not working was the transistor A (pnp) if I remember correctly. Ithink I have some info on them from the last one i did. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Squiffy  Common problem with battery driven units , the battery leaks and the salts  corrode the terminals.  As Andy said the terminal can be replaced with a bit of careful soldering. I have even repaired some quartz units by making new terminals from brass sheet, but better still the link supplied by Andy for the bay contains plenty of terminals, mustbe some on there  Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

55 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi  Squiffy Interesting if you could supply photos of the control unit opened up.

I will do when I get to it. It’ll mean taking it off and dismantling it first and I’m working during the day at my new job. I’m now an apprentice saddler! At 54! Working in a proper old school type workshop 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/14/2020 at 11:11 AM, Squiffything said:

I’m now an apprentice saddler! At 54! Working in a proper old school type workshop 

Leather working is a useful talent to develop. Don't forget to keep the leather scraps for making watch bands. :D
I may well be coming back for tips. My wife took up quilting about two years back, and as a result, I'm now pretty competent with a sewing machine (both stripping them down and servicing them and using them).

RIMG0316.thumb.JPG.d6b5b098244fc9b5574e8cb3c32916f1.JPG

Here's the latest.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is lovely I’m getting the hang of it but the industrial machines we use try to run away with me. 

I’m getting the hand stitching sorted and mainly doing repairs taking the load off the main guys in the workshop. My biggest problem is that I struggle to keep in mind the repair is just that. It does not need to be as good as new so I’m spending too much time trying to make it as perfect as I can. I’m learning though and loving it850B5A79-68BB-4147-A7F8-0124E9BBCD74.thumb.jpeg.ed0b9e07cd3341194b39275f4cef2edd.jpeg17316B05-3D47-4E1F-B9E9-FA9222B8C42F.thumb.jpeg.cf3edf26d29aeef4aa6fa3291fc5328e.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I managed to get the clock running by making a brass contact plate however although the clock runs and keeps good time the pendulum doesn’t swing as it should but more twitches so something is not right. 

The saddlery work is going well and I’m getting faster. Started training on the computer engraving machine so another string to the bow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've remained silent on this thread, and at the risk of upsetting everyone, the thing that worries me the most the the apparent absence of Mark. The moderators do a great job and the members also pitch in, and the site seems to run itself, but it is a concern for the future of this forum when the owner is absent for all intents and purposes. Like many of the comments above I would hate to log in one day and things be closed down as I rely on this site for ideas and knowledge and also cheer me up. maybe the Moderators could reach out to him, assuming he does not read this thread, and express our concerns and let us know the plans going forward? some kind of WRT ark
    • That was the exact reason for me starting this thread watchie. Still we haven't worked out how the regulars are going to hook up if it goes tits up. I honestly think something should be arranged to stay in contact, we all help each other so much. 
    • Yeah ive watched that a few times before,  i couldnt find my old school dividers to scribe it up 😅 Yep thats the guy i bought a roll from . Thanks Nicklesilver that answers that perfectly and more or less what i thought an experiment over time would prove . The jumper arm is quite thick along its length, i left it that way intentionally, i thought the original was probably very thin, i didnt see that it was already missing. Setting isn't particularly stiff as such just positive, i still need to take it out and polish where it mates with the stem release. 
    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift. Speaking of watchfix.com I've been postponing the "Level 5: Servicing Chronograph Watches" course for a very, very long time. Anyway, I just enrolled on it so it's going to be very interesting to see the videos. I must say, IMO there's nothing really that can compete with Mark's courses when it comes to presentation and video quality. It's simply world-class and makes me associate with some really expensive BBC productions.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
×
×
  • Create New...