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CASIO EDIFICE

berniethebolt
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berniethebolt WRT Addict

berniethebolt

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HI,I am not sure where i should post this question, if at all,but a friend of mine asked if i could clean up his Casio Edifice EF -101 and i duly obliged.it needed a new crystal.no problem.then it came to the bracelet.Casio no longer supply this model and the lugs are narrow (12mm) and the end pieces were some sort of plastic. i have hunted everywhere for replacements without any luck.any ideas how to fix this without too much expense? grateful for any suggestions (within reason:wub:)

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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As said above one possibility could be 3D printing but expect to pay at very least the cost of a new same watch. Maybe you can fix the end links with epoxy glue, sand excess material and paint. 

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berniethebolt WRT Addict

berniethebolt

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13 hours ago, jdm said:

As said above one possibility could be 3D printing but expect to pay at very least the cost of a new same watch. Maybe you can fix the end links with epoxy glue, sand excess material and paint. 

i dont think its worth the bother.might try bits from other bracelets!

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      I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
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      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
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      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
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