Rinse baths

[saswatch88]

52 minutes ago, jdm said:

Harassed by my factual contributions? Or bothered of being called out on your reprieving postings, inevitably coming from self-professed high grounds, but never supported by a single picture or detail of your work. As in the recurrent "timegrapher apps are garbage", or the petty personal attacks in this very thread.
It may sound strange to you, but I do respect everybody's opinion including your, and if you take the time to read back what I wrote, you'l find words like "I think", and "personally". 

 

 

 

I’m sorry but I have never attacked anyone. In fact I can care less what you say I’m not the one going around quoting every single one of your posts. I guess I must have struck a nerve somewhere down the line no one else on here seems to have any issue with my posts. I don’t see any pictures of your work either and I’m sorry I don’t tend to take pictures while I’m working on a movement un less it’s one that I have never disassembled before. Self-professed Highground you Gotta be kidding me you are the most smug person I ever met and i dont even know you lol. I wish this forum had a way to block people. I caught your post that you just so happen to not quote me in where you’re attacking me for not spelling out the word replica. I think you have too much time on your hands and maybe just bored with life and need to troll forums for your own excitement, Good luck with that but this is the last time I’m going to respond i will not enable It any longer.

Edited January 4, 2020 by saswatch88

[teegee]

On 1/4/2020 at 4:21 PM, saswatch88 said:

 Those days i was using the old ronsonol/ipa method. And came to find out that even after a quick rinse (5 minutes tops in ultrasonic) my pallet and roller jewels were coming loose.

Ah, I wouldn't call that a short rinse, especially in U/S, which probably makes it attack shellac even worse. I recently went back to a very quick IPA final rinse (10s high speed slosh, 5s low speed, then spin and into the heated chamber). Before that I used two naphtha rinses, but found that even the second rinse was prone to picking up oils over time and leaving an otherwise invisible residue that would cause hairspring sticking issues.

I've also experienced melted pallets etc, but with a very short rinse there's no issue.

So first Elma 9:1, then naphtha, then IPA, then dryer.

I've never tried hairspring dip because it can't be shipped and I can't buy it here. Same for professional rinses, which seem to cost at least $200-$300 or so, in large containers.

[saswatch88]

5 hours ago, teegee said:

Ah, I wouldn't call that a short rinse, especially in U/S, which probably makes it attack shellac even worse. I recently went back to a very quick IPA final rinse (10s high speed slosh, 5s low speed, then spin and into the heated chamber). Before that I used two naphtha rinses, but found that even the second rinse was prone to picking up oils over time and leaving an otherwise invisible residue that would cause hairspring sticking issues.

I've also experienced melted pallets etc, but with a very short rinse there's no issue.

So first Elma 9:1, then naphtha, then IPA, then dryer.

I've never tried hairspring dip because it can't be shipped and I can't buy it here. Same for professional rinses, which seem to cost at least $200-$300 or so, in large containers.

Lol i actually meant to say 5 seconds. Yea def. not 5 min in IPA. Hardware store grade naphtha leaves a residue, even the higher grade naphtha cleaners and rinses such as L&R leave a residue but much less. Just know this residue is not going to cause any issues with your service. But to help it needs to be dried very fast with heated air. As far as pro rinses L&R products only cost about $50-$60 per gallon. Which is not much compared to the $20 for lesser grade stuff. I have to say I never had any issues with sticking hairsprings with either form of naphtha, if you don’t wanna pay for one dip then i will suggest electrical contact cleaner, its dries fast and leaves no residue