Jump to content

Sicura D500 Jump Hour


rustycolt

Recommended Posts

I have been looking for one of these for quite a while, and finally found the right one. Bought from the bay as a project, it was a bit hard done by when I received it, but that it what I was after. Right off the bat, it needed a new balance staff and full service. I ordered a complete balance, as the existing hairspring was not inspiring confidence, and I have yet to develop any hairspring repair skills. Turns out that the BFG866 movement has two different hairspring configurations, which in turn use two different regulator/stud mount posts. They physically work together when they are wrong, but the hairspring becomes distorted due to incorrect y-axis positioning. I have located the parts to correct this, it shall be done. In addition, I have found that the power reserve is a meagre 11 hours or so, as such, I've placed an order for a new mainspring. Today is the second day that I have worn it, and I can see that I will need to go back in and tighten up the canon pinion a little also. So still a couple more tasks on the worksheet for this watch, and I wouldn't normally wear a work in progress, but now that the replacement glass is installed, I couldn't resist putting it on this morning. 

 

Many thanks to fellow WRT member noirrac1j who has been a tremendous resource throughout this project, and who was the key to sourcing a replacement crystal - that was a huge deal, my gratitude to him for the help, and to Mark for creating this community for us to find each other in!

 

Here is the poor thing before - I was able to polish out about 95% of the scratches and pits from the crystal, but that only revealed that there were two significant cracks, and a crater at 8:00. 

post-456-0-60340900-1420727206_thumb.jpe

 

I was able to do some light polishing on the case, but the plating is pretty thin, and I'd rather live with a few honest scratches than brass edges, so for now, this will suffice. There is a decent chance that the bracelet is original, but I do not know for certain. The clasp has been repaired at some point, and it was done well. I think the cost of that repair would have exceeded a replacement bracelet. It is not signed, but for my purposes, I'm willing to accept it as an original part (for the time being, at least)

 

post-456-0-04636700-1420727906_thumb.jpg

post-456-0-90151000-1420728078_thumb.jpg

post-456-0-84782500-1420728103_thumb.jpg

post-456-0-83980400-1420728133_thumb.jpg

post-456-0-01321600-1420728177_thumb.jpg

 

All in all, it's good fun, and that is exactly what I bought it for. It's roughly the same vintage as I, and while that was not an era known for its timeless style and beauty, it is satisfying to embrace that bit of nostalgia and individuality. 

-J

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good job and fantastic photos Jeremy! Maybe a shot of the movement when you work on the cannon pinion or change out the balance? By the way, I actually have an original signed sicura bracelet for this watch. The bracelet I have is good quality, flexible, etc. and has also been repaired at one of the links. I don't have it on my watch because I happen to like leather straps. I have both original and refinished examples of the watchcase, and I prefer the "sunburst" brush finish which is difficult to reproduce because it is radial--at least that is what they told me.  I love the uniqueness of the Sicura's and it always gets noticed when I wear it.

 

JC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I had to say what a wonderful job you made of this. If you are still around (4 years is a long time, ha ha) do you have details of where the crystal came from as I have just bought one of these myself and joined the forum because of this thread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Just a note for those who come searching for information on this topic in the future.  I did eventually find the Mark's video on how to replace these springs, as someone observed, he does in fact make the replacement look easy.  (It actually is relatively easy once you have the knack of it.) If you're enrolled in one of Mark's online courses, the demonstration of how to replace this spring is in the Bonus Videos section of his course site, and is called "C2B1 – Sea-Gull Style Shock Springs".
    • If the metal was twice as thick, it wouldn't snap so easily.  The thickness is governed by the space available so you can't use thicker metal.  If you glued two pieces together, the likelihood of snapping would be reduced.  That's my theory anyway, could be wrong. 
    • there are various approaches to learning watch repair. A lot of people want to jump right in and every single watches something to be repaired restored. But other times like this it's disposable it's here for you to learn and when you're through learning you throw it away. yes you definitely should try this you have a learning movement you need to learn and the best way to learn is by doing something.
    • Sorry, the friction will be so great that the wheel will barely turn, if the movement will start at all, the amplitude will be verry lo.
    • If I can’t re-pivot the wheel, the logical thing to do is to descend the pivot hole.  Plan is to either stick a suitably sized hole jewel (from a barrel bridge or something) or fashion a blob of epoxy on the underside of the escape wheel cock so the wheel sits on its one pivot on the base plate and the staff with the broken off pivot (which I’ll polish as best as I can) becomes the upper pivot. As long as it doesn’t foul the 4th wheel it should work? I know it’s a bodge job, and if this were a rare movement, or belonged to someone else I would not do this. I’m just interested to see if I can get the thing to run. 
×
×
  • Create New...