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Hello from Dallas, Texas!


JJx

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First, a BIG thank you to Mark and the team for making these wonderful resources possible for the rest of us!

I'm originally from El Salvador which is a small country in Central America. Due to the war there, I ended up migrating to the US when I was a child, so grew up with my father's brother's family. I eventually married an American - 'my angel sent from Heaven' as I like to call her, since she is the reason I am who I am. I moved to the US in '79. Married in '92. Had our daughter in '94, and she married 2 years ago to an Afghanistan war US veteran who has a wonderful heart and whom I love as my own son.

I have always enjoyed watches, but didn't and don't have the means to have an expensive collection. I started following related YouTube channels and realized that you don't need thousands or even hundreds of US dollars to spend on watches to enjoy them :thumbsu:

I am not sure if I would really enjoy fixing and/or building my own watches, but I am interested in trying it out. Due to my job, I am not able to spend too much time towards it, so I'm here to see if little by little, I eventually dive into it. In the meantime, I truly enjoy the videos Mark and others develop and share!

Looking forward to being part of this community!

JJ

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Thanks for the warm welcomes! I have 4 watches and 1 pocket watch (handed down from my grandfather), so I don't have much to share but would love to see others' collections! If you have a list of watches, DO share :Bravo:

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    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.   I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
    • Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.    
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