Where does this jewel get oiled?

[Lc130]

Hi All

This is an FHF 28.  I'm a beginner and haven't worked with this type of jewel where the cap is screwed in.  There's an oil cup on the other side of the plate.  This is for the escape wheel.  What gets oiled?  The screw in cap or the oil cup or both?  

Thank you

Charlie

 

[rogart63]

You place a small drop on the endcap . It will spread out when you put it back on. 

[Lc130]

3 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

You place a small drop on the endcap . It will spread out when you put it back on. 

Thanks for the quick reply!

[VWatchie]

I'm (almost) a beginner too and was in the exact same situation as you are a year ago when I started a thread about this topic. BTW, remember to replace the cap jewel before you replace the train wheel bridge (read about it here in the same thread).

[Lc130]

Thank you for pointing out that issue.  It would not have occurred to me.  
 

congratulations on restoring your grandfathers watch.  I have my grandfathers pocket watch inscribed Christmas 1915.  It’s pretty far gone but I hope to restore after a few more years of learning.

[StuartBaker104]

Charlie,

For the quantity of oil, see here as per balance cap jewels.

http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/BTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches.pdf

This also describes other ways of oiling capped jewel holes, but I find method 1 the simplest.

 

[saswatch88]

On 12/18/2019 at 4:23 PM, rogart63 said:

You place a small drop on the endcap . It will spread out when you put it back on. 

He will also need to oil the pivot jewel holes, if he is using the correct synthetic oil like moebius it does not spread when applied correctly with the correct amount. Spreading is one of the reasons why synthetic oils were invented. Spreading is the one thing we don’t want when we oil a jewel. Too much oil and it will just get whisked away by the pivot. By putting the cap jewel back on it will just flatten the oil bead but it wont make its way into the pivot hole. Again assuming he is using synthetic oils. Hopefully 9010 on the escape.

[StuartBaker104]

46 minutes ago, saswatch88 said:

He will also need to oil the pivot jewel holes,

The BHI document says not to do this. Part of the point of oiling the cap jewel is to get a very small controlled quanity of oil just on the pivot. Putting oil into the jewel hole as well would likely result in too much oil which would then get drawn down the pivot onto the staff.

It’s more critical on the balance, but still important on the escape wheel not to have too much oil.

[saswatch88]

12 hours ago, StuartBaker104 said:

The BHI document says not to do this. Part of the point of oiling the cap jewel is to get a very small controlled quanity of oil just on the pivot. Putting oil into the jewel hole as well would likely result in too much oil which would then get drawn down the pivot onto the staff.

It’s more critical on the balance, but still important on the escape wheel not to have too much oil.

I can’t imagine oil spreading onto the staff with proper oiling and using synthetic oils. If you are worried about it then you can use epilame/fix a drop. I would not feel comfortable with a dry pivot hole under any circumstance, esp on a balance or escapement.

[nickelsilver]

The standard technique for oiling these, as well as non shock protected balance jewels, is to assemble the cap, put oil in the cup of the underside of the hole jewel, then feed it through with a fine taper pin. It's in numerous texts and is how it's taught in school. You continue to add oil and feed it through (usually it sucks in after the first pin feed) until you have a correct circle of oil showing on the cap jewel.

Oiling before assembly runs a great risk of smearing it elsewhere, which really requires a full cleaning of the components then. Dabbing with Rodico is not nearly enough.

[saswatch88]

1 hour ago, nickelsilver said:

The standard technique for oiling these, as well as non shock protected balance jewels, is to assemble the cap, put oil in the cup of the underside of the hole jewel, then feed it through with a fine taper pin. It's in numerous texts and is how it's taught in school. You continue to add oil and feed it through (usually it sucks in after the first pin feed) until you have a correct circle of oil showing on the cap jewel.

Oiling before assembly runs a great risk of smearing it elsewhere, which really requires a full cleaning of the components then. Dabbing with Rodico is not nearly enough.

That’s actually how i do it now, because i have seen marks videos and he oils the cap jewels then the pivots before assembly and if you don’t get the cap jewel in perfect the first time it smears and gets oils around the cock hole. I use the Bergeon automatic oilers for this and I don’t need a pin, i can see the bead form on the cap jewel with the microscope.

Edited December 25, 2019 by saswatch88

[jaycey]

There is an auto-oiler that does this with the minimal of fuss. Well apart from the extortionate price of the oiler

[saswatch88]

7 hours ago, jaycey said:

There is an auto-oiler that does this with the minimal of fuss. Well apart from the extortionate price of the oiler

Honestly best $80 bucks ever spent, all you need is one, the full set is unnecessary