Jump to content

Glass, gasket, case dilemma. Need help!


Chopin

Recommended Posts

Alright so I'm having some problems figuring this out. The watch below came with all parts original, as far as I can tell. It needed a new gasket and since the glass was hard to find I polished it a bit and after servicing the movement assembled everything in place.

Unfortunately, when I pull the crown out, the movement inside moves a bit sideways (same when I push it in) and there seems to be a small (but visible) gap between the chapter ring and the case, hence, making the dial visible (it's worse when you add the glass because of the magnifying effect).

From looking online the glass seems the original one but I can't tell for sure. I am starting to wonder whether the watch had an acrylic crystal with a tension ring, originally, and maybe a gasket as well.

Do you think that if I installed a gasket and then an acrylic crystal with a tension ring, the tension ring would cover the gap but also stop the dial/movement from moving ? The movement itself has the original plastic spacer and also 2 metalic strips to hold it in place which are also original.

I've seen some online photos but I just can't figure out whether those have original glass/crystals or whether they have tension rings or not. Please help!

20191216_232432.thumb.jpg.c7884fb04dce2ce3186f6958ab60e1d3.jpg

asd.jpg.5b877458e9b2d82450552ae7a31ca339.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Let me understand. the movement didnt wiggle before you removed the crystal correct? if so when you took it apart did you see a gasket or a tension ring? It does look like the stype that would use a tension ring but Either way a tensing ring is not going to help with the movement wiggling nor would a gasket. it looks as if you didnt install the movement correctly or the movement spacer is seated right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most of the T-12 in these cushion cases have a multi sided screw-in bezel. Does yours have internal threads in the case?

It is possible to install the movement ring upside down, thereby upsetting the relationship of the dial, movement and case, there may be some witness marks left by the screws previously so its worth checking.

Also you could have a wrong or worn out movement ring. These Tissot usually have white a plastic one and sometimes the area where the case screws sit are worn. I have had to repair them by building them up with super glue and dressing them down with a file.

In these designs, the movement is fixed to the ring and the ring is what determines the relationship of the dial vs movement.

Anilv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@saswatch88 It did this before, as well.

@anilv This model does not have any kind of bezel. The spacer was installed correctly and it is not damaged. With the movement and spacer installed, I can actually use a tweezer and just slightly move the whole ensemble around (talking 0,1mm or so...). Takes a bit of force, though.

Not only does it slightly move when pushing/pulling the crown but also the gap between the case and chapter ring makes the dial visible just a tad and it looks out of place. I highly doubt that that is how these watches were made.

What I have noticed is that the crown has a gasket inside but it's not rubber but actually plastic (it seems to seal in the case pretty well but not sure how water resistant it is) and it sits very tight when inside the case tube. For example when I'm manually winding the watch (or turning the crown the other way to produce that well-known clicking sound) I can feel the crown very tight actually because of that plastic gasket that probably rubs against the tube.

I'm wondering whether the tightness caused by the gasket might influence this but at the same time it is the original one (I guess). I doubt that they would have made such a watch with a poorly designed gasket. The case is a compressor btw.

Edited by Chopin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The crown gasket should not affect the location of the movement in the case if the parts are orientated correctly.

Here's a picture of mine. The dial looks similar. It has a big 16-sided screw-down bezel on the front which keeps the crystal down. It looks like it should have an inner bezel, I made a half-hearted attempt to remove it but it didn't budge so I just polished the crystal in-situ.

Will look for it and have a closer look.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jet @anilv thanks for the link. Mine is slightly different. There is no thread inside the case and the glass sits firmly as it should thanks to the gasket. I see yours has/had a gasket as well.

There are some photos of my model on the web and it looks similar, no bezel. I just can't seem to see whether there's something inside holding the dial/chapter ring (it seems like there isn't).  Even the glass is identical.

Here it is.

https://www.catawiki.com/l/29115339-tissot-t12-automatic-women-1971

Still wondering whether it might have had a tension ringed crystal but even with the gasket in place I don't know if it would be the desired fit.

Weirdly I see the one in the auction also has a very small but visible gap between the ring and the glass/case.

Edited by Chopin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like I'll be wearing the dunce hat.

Problem solved and it was a no-brainer but somehow it only hit me now. The case clamps were flat and as you know they (usually) need to be slightly at an angle to actually hold the movement against the case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Is the Roamer not a split stem? I'm confused on your how your case is put together. If it is a front loader where is it you are putting the case screws? I love me some Roamer, do you have any photos?
    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
×
×
  • Create New...