Jump to content

Unknown tool


Tore

Recommended Posts

I suppose a picture would help. Before the lever escapement there were other escapement's one of them that was very popular was the cylinder escapement. It is an interesting feature where if you break a pivot off it can be replaced.

Then a note regarding proper horological terminology? A lot of this will depend upon when and where you are. There are quite a few parts that will have multiple of names for the exact same part. This leads to irritation and confusion by the material house people when people insist on using names different than what they're used to. So for instance grabbing a copy of Britain's watch and clock makers handbook dictionary and guide refers to the things that go in the cylinder as plugs.

Continuing with my amusement on terminology I would agree with Tmuir that his terminology is correct because I've seen references to that. But grabbing a another reference that I would consider more reliable or at least better or perhaps is the book The Illustrated Professional Dictionary of Horology by G A Berner a rather interesting book because It has lots of horological terms and it's in three languages. So in its definition or talking about the cylinder it refers to the things on the end as plugs made of steel.

There is an electronic version of the book available at the link below which totally sucks for the definition of what a cylinder escapement is as it's lacking quite a few words missing from the book itself. But apparently the book is available for purchase and yes it's always been expensive if you could find it.

https://www.fhs.swiss/eng/dictionary.html

Cylinder esc.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hopefully these 3 pictures will explain the use to you on how they are used to remove and insatll the cylinder plugs show in John's post

This is from Archie B Perkins book Antique Watch Restoration Volume 1 which is just 1 of 4 great books from Archie if you have the money spare as they are not cheap.

585438466_cylinderplugs2.thumb.jpg.79e4a5228b9802d4d77263f3ec187471.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, Tmuir said:

You could be correct that Tampon may be the French terminology for the part.

It occurred to me that as my dictionary is in four languages and you mentioned the word French I scanned in the French section. I've also highlighted the appropriate section of words that were interested in.

cyl-fr.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

in the past you to purchase the cylinders all assembled or the plugs and cylinder separate. As at one time this was a relatively common escapement. Occasionally though come up on eBay

Or if you type in the right search term you can find pictures I was looking for pictures of the components but I think you'll find these pictures useful

https://timepieceshoppe.com/cylinder-watch-mechanical-restoration/

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Tore said:

Thank you for solving the mistery tool. That was splended. I wonder if i ever gonna use it, and it looks unused.  I presum the plugs must be maked in a lathe, if the tools are used?

    I doubt if youl ever use it. i serviced one of those mvmt.  watchs ---I'll never buy another one.  cheers  vin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
×
×
  • Create New...