Jump to content

Tudor 2447 Timegrapher Results


mzinski

Recommended Posts

10 hours ago, jdm said:

I suspect that a different instrument will show the same as the current one.

I would follow the suggestions given above for fault finding.

So I've re-cleaned it again, including the mainspring - the train moves freely, some end shake but not excessive, nothing is tight or confined, and some recoil when tested. Every piece was individually demagnetized. However, the watch still runs fast - 30 min in a day. 

I replaced the balance spring with an 18,000bpm because I am making an assumption the Tudor 2447 is also a 18,000bpm movement. However, I have not found any documentation to suggest it actually is. Documentation is incredibly rare and hard to find for a new, hobbyist like myself. If I put in the wrong balance spring and this movement is actually a 19,800 or 21,600 (or even 16,200) what would the implication be? Would it be timing fast? 

Here is the balance in action: 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From the 4th and escape wheel we can see that this is an 18,000 BPH watch. What do you mean when you say you changed the balance spring? Just the spring? They are not interchangeable, they are matched to a given balance. If you are running 30 mins/day fast there is something very wrong, that would be difficult to correct even with the biggest timing washers installed on every balance screw.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

From the 4th and escape wheel we can see that this is an 18,000 BPH watch. What do you mean when you say you changed the balance spring? Just the spring? They are not interchangeable, they are matched to a given balance. If you are running 30 mins/day fast there is something very wrong, that would be difficult to correct even with the biggest timing washers installed on every balance screw.

Oh dear! On the bright side it’s always good to be learning. 
So, I only changed the spring, not the wheel. The existing spring was very bent/kinked. (I bought the movement in not working condition FWIW) 

Edited by mzinski
Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, mzinski said:

I replaced the balance spring with an 18,000bpm

I can see somebody beat me to the answer as nickelsilver As commented hairsprings are not usually considered interchangeable components with the exception of American pocket watches where you had an infinite supply of timing screws to go with them. Each hairspring is vibrated to a specific Balance wheel.

So looking at my list of lift angles for various watches it indicates that the Tudor 2447  Is 18,000 beats per hour  lift angle at 51°

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

I can see somebody beat me to the answer as nickelsilver As commented hairsprings are not usually considered interchangeable components with the exception of American pocket watches where you had an infinite supply of timing screws to go with them. Each hairspring is vibrated to a specific Balance wheel.

So looking at my list of lift angles for various watches it indicates that the Tudor 2447  Is 18,000 beats per hour  lift angle at 51°

Thanks! I did discover the 51 lift angle too. 
 

Any recommendations on the spring and/or balance complete? I haven’t been able to buy a new one as none of the big suppliers (Ofrei, Jules Borel, etc) seem you carry it. 
I could really use some advice on how I can rectify. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PS. I should also give a little context to my crazy, uneducated decision to swap out the spring. 

I bought the movement not working, "for repairs". The balance spring was kinked and I could not re-bend into a good position. I've purchased a few ETA 2369 movements in an attempt to simply swap in a new balance wheel complete. Problem is, most of the 2369 stock I've found is for INCABLOC shocks systems, not the KIF installed in the Tudor. I seem to recall measuring the height of the balance stem and finding them to be different - but I'd need to remeasure to make sure I'm not crossing wires with another movement. When I swap these in, the balance stem doesn't seem to align correctly. Do I know for certain this is why things didn't align? No - it is only my suspicion. 

I'm not set up to swap out balance stems - I still need more practice and a jeweling/staking tool. My previous attempts have been catastrophic and I don't want to mess up this Tudor balance wheel and balance staff. 

Since the collar is the easy to remove/adjust style, I figured I'd follow the WRT tutorial on changing balance springs. Viola! With some patience and diligence in aligning for beat error, changing it out was no problem. Well, no problem until I've learned the spring and balance need to be married to one another. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you haven't got much to lose with the existing balance, then I might see how much you can bring the rate down with the two mean-time balance screws. Draw them out an equal number of turns and see what you can do with the rate. Note that they affect poise and must be done equally. They are the two screws with longer threads which are not fully screwed down.

Sometimes KIF and Inca staffs are interchangeable and sometimes not. You'll know soon enough if you try another balance and it has too little or too much endshake.

Judging by the chamfering on the pallet fork, I'd suggest this was possibly also one of Tudor's modifications.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
On 12/16/2019 at 7:45 PM, rodabod said:

If you haven't got much to lose with the existing balance, then I might see how much you can bring the rate down with the two mean-time balance screws. Draw them out an equal number of turns and see what you can do with the rate. Note that they affect poise and must be done equally. They are the two screws with longer threads which are not fully screwed down.

Sometimes KIF and Inca staffs are interchangeable and sometimes not. You'll know soon enough if you try another balance and it has too little or too much endshake.

Judging by the chamfering on the pallet fork, I'd suggest this was possibly also one of Tudor's modifications.

Gave this a shot but with no luck. 

However, I found another Tudor 2447 for sale for parts with a good, intact balance. I've since purchased, cleaned, and installed into my movement. This has eliminated the strange "X" reading on the timegrapher app. The tracing appears as a normal, continuous line albeit with a beat error of 0.6. Next step is to eliminate as much of the beat error as I can and regulate. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The entry jewel's not as bad but seems still too much lock. I do epilame the escape wheel and pallet jewels, then run dry for about 15 minutes, then put 9415 in exit jewel very little at a time and check with backlight how the oil's distributed.  Another question is about capped escape wheels. Should I somehow wear the epilame off the pivots before installing the wheel? I normally let the escape wheel run dry for that said 15 minutes when there's no cap jewel.
    • Sometimes there's a certain place under the bezel where the case knife is supposed to be placed. In this borrowed pic there's a small crack at 3 o'clock. 
    • Hi my fellow forum addicts, I'm writing this as I seem to have a hole in my knowledge (probably one of many!) I seem to have a horrible time removing bezels from watches. I am talking about the rotating type on sports/diving watches. I see many videos where the guy on screen barely inserts the case knife under the bezel and with no effort it pops off easily, then at the end it clicks back into place by hand with no effort. I am sure that part of this is due to skillful video editing, but I seem to wrestle with them, I have tried case knives and  even when using the tool below, I tighten it up in several positions and nothing happens. On a many occasions I have even warped the bezel in my attempts to remove it. Similarly, I have issues replacing bezels after cleaning etc. and often they have to be replaced using a press tool and inevitably are far too tight and will not rotate or loose to the point where they fall off or loose their click (perhaps due to micro warping when I tried to remove??). It is now to the point where I am actually avoiding watches with bezels as my success rate with them is terrible......please help!! In short I am asking: What am I doing wrong? What is the best method for removing bezels - how do you do it? What is the best method for replacing bezels - how do you do it? Any tips or tricks? Thanks  
    • Amplitude still seems low, but I'm going to let it run in a bit and revisit. Meanwhile, got the first layer of the calendar works together and made sure the date ring snaps to both in quickset and regular setting. The mechanism is pretty cool, so I took a video.  
    • This is the part that need replaced if anyone can point me in the right direction. 
×
×
  • Create New...