Jump to content

Greetings Wrt People


steve855

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone,

I've been learning a lot here in recent weeks and you all seem like very decent folks so i figured I'd join up. I live in Pennsylvania, USA.

I'm on a couple other forums as well. I enjoy doing case finishing work and am just starting to learn about movements. I recently did my first disassembly and reassembly on a seiko 6119. I got it all back together and running! No lost parts or broken pivots so I was quite happy. Not a true COA by any stretch, but you've got to start somewhere, right? I didn't remove any jewels yet or open the barrel, but it was my first time so i tried to keep it simple. I just stripped everything down to the main plate then went back together. The calendar side was a bit tricky but I just kept taking it apart and going back together until i knew each component's function and where it belongs.

I didn't clean or lubricate anything- this was to see if i could even work competently on such a small scale before I invest any money in cleaning supplies and oil. I think I'll do this procedure a few more times then order some supplies in.

Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge here, and thanks to Mark for providing this forum and your excellent videos.

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome aboard Steve, and well done with your endeavours so far. Like you I enjoy re-finishing the cases as much as working on the movements. I'm sure you'll fit in here just fine, and I look forward to seeing the fruits if your labours sometime.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome Steve, well done on getting the Seiko back together, I look forward to hearing about the case refinishing".

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks daz, the watch in question is a Seiko 6119-5450 Diamatic, case is in very rough condition, and the dial is not very good either. Also, it's missing the part which drives the day wheel, so I have some work to do. I bought this model because it was rough and cheap, and not really a style which I like. This was so I wouldn't feel bad if my attempt at movement disassembly resulted in its utter destruction!

Of course, now my teenage daughter likes it and she's pestering me to restore it for her, so I'd better get busy. So much for it being a throw away.

Off topic, her daily wear watch is a small seiko ladies diver bought on ebay, I think it's a 4205. I had to replace the transmission wheel and tweak the pawl lever but it's running ok now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Just a note for those who come searching for information on this topic in the future.  I did eventually find the Mark's video on how to replace these springs, as someone observed, he does in fact make the replacement look easy.  (It actually is relatively easy once you have the knack of it.) If you're enrolled in one of Mark's online courses, the demonstration of how to replace this spring is in the Bonus Videos section of his course site, and is called "C2B1 – Sea-Gull Style Shock Springs".
    • If the metal was twice as thick, it wouldn't snap so easily.  The thickness is governed by the space available so you can't use thicker metal.  If you glued two pieces together, the likelihood of snapping would be reduced.  That's my theory anyway, could be wrong. 
    • there are various approaches to learning watch repair. A lot of people want to jump right in and every single watches something to be repaired restored. But other times like this it's disposable it's here for you to learn and when you're through learning you throw it away. yes you definitely should try this you have a learning movement you need to learn and the best way to learn is by doing something.
    • Sorry, the friction will be so great that the wheel will barely turn, if the movement will start at all, the amplitude will be verry lo.
    • If I can’t re-pivot the wheel, the logical thing to do is to descend the pivot hole.  Plan is to either stick a suitably sized hole jewel (from a barrel bridge or something) or fashion a blob of epoxy on the underside of the escape wheel cock so the wheel sits on its one pivot on the base plate and the staff with the broken off pivot (which I’ll polish as best as I can) becomes the upper pivot. As long as it doesn’t foul the 4th wheel it should work? I know it’s a bodge job, and if this were a rare movement, or belonged to someone else I would not do this. I’m just interested to see if I can get the thing to run. 
×
×
  • Create New...