Jump to content

Help with Zenith 2542 Inca Shoc


AlexeiJ1

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,
I've servicing a 2542 Zenith and I broke half the balance bridge inca-shoc spring.
Watch still running. Serves me right for trying to clean the jewel. I'm mostly a seiko man these days so I'm used to the Seiko spring style.

Cousins lists lots of parts:
Inca 09.109.12.250 (15 pounds)
Inca 111.09 - (ETA 2824.2, 2836.2 & 2892.A2)  (5 pounds)

and finally
Shock Bloc, Lower, Zenith 2562PC 3025  for 13 pounds.

There is a complete balance cock for $50 on ebay.

What is the cheapest way of getting a shock spring and getting it in. I've done an inca style spring on an old omega moonphase for myself but that was easy to source an older part.

Can someone help interpret what part I should order.

image.thumb.png.55787197e4cceafab1dad3d82381c1be.png
Cheers
Alex

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, AlexeiJ1 said:


I've servicing a 2542 Zenith and I broke half the balance bridge inca-shoc spring.
Watch still running. Serves me right for trying to clean the jewel. I'm mostly a seiko man these days so I'm used to the Seiko spring style.

Same issue here with a  Chinese U shaped spring, broke it after trying too many times. I will need special tuition about that. But you can't do a proper repair or service without opening them. Give me Seiko springs any day. Good luck. 

Edited by jdm
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, jdm said:

I don't understand what a staking set has to do with working on shock springs.

Quite often (not always though) the bloc needs to be pushed out a bit or even completely to fit the spring. I personally wouldn't want to do it with a staking tool, a jeweling tool would be perfect.

 

AlexiJ1, if you can carefully measure the remains of your spring you can look at this list to find a part number, then this page at cousins for the part.

 

Inca's site it surprisingly full of useful info, you can see all the spare parts lists by caliber or dimension here. Unfortunately they don't list your specific caliber, but by measuring you should be OK.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, nickelsilver said:

Quite often (not always though) the bloc needs to be pushed out a bit or even completely to fit the spring.

I would love to see a video of that. It has never been mentioned in the 4 years that I read here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, jdm said:

I would love to see a video of that. It has never been mentioned in the 4 years that I read here.

Don't have a video, but if you look at the pic it's a matter of the design of the bloc. The spring has to come in from the back, the outside. Some blocs have more of a chamfer at the perimeter, and where they are seated may have a decent chamfer, and some of the smaller springs have a smaller "T" end, and can be coaxed into place one "T" tip at a time without disturbing anything. But often the bloc needs to be pushed out a bit to allow access to the slot for the T.

 

And,  on some calibers the slot for the T is too accessible and the spring wants to fall out when open. On Incabloc the concept is it remains captive, but on some smaller calibers (like 5x7 ladies movements) particularly on the dial side the bloc sits proud of the mainplate surface and the spring just falls out when open.

 

20191202_125431.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

Don't have a video, but if you look at the pic it's a matter of the design of the bloc. 

Thank you. I'm used to Seiko that apparently doesn't even have a separated block. Here the spring I broke and the block of a Chinese mov't, please excuse the poor pictures. Supposedly the hinges goes into the rounded slot? 

DSC_0139.thumb.JPG.86d5c1b46dd800baa6f2b96512d4c4cc.JPGDSC_0149.thumb.JPG.082f1a25ee17a91816ec988bc1a359a1.JPG

I suppose that a removable block and the use of a jewelling tool allows adjusting the end shake, making the difference between a rushed and a top job.

Finally, how these tools would fit the equation? 

 

 

copper-Special-watch-tools-for-remove-rubies-disassembled-incabloc-Etashoc-fit-ETA2824-2834-2836-2671-2688.jpg_640x640q70.jpg_.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes that Seiko spring is similar to many of the Kif models, and I think should indeed fit into the rounded slot.

The lower tools are for shock springs that are sort of a "bayonet" mount, where there are usually 3 openings in the bloc and corresponding protrusions on the spring. They are easy to damage when inserting, thus the tools; but a piece of pegwood that has had its end made concave with a round burr works very well too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

Yes that Seiko spring is similar to many of the Kif models, and I think should indeed fit into the rounded slot.

Thanks. For the record it's a Chinese mov't, the Seiko's are 1,000 times easier to deal with. For these I have made the following video that shows how to follow your advice with pegwood.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
    • Hi! I am in the process of restoring a rado captain cook mkII. I want to remove the rotor, but I am not sure how to and need some help. As you can hopefully see on the photo there are 2 screws. The left one has two positions, the right one looks like a regular screw. I have tried turning the right one, but it does not give even after using more force than I would expect. Anyone know the function of the left screw with the two positions and how to remove the rotor? Thanks!!
×
×
  • Create New...