Jump to content

Dial (face) cleaning?

64americandeluxe
 Share

Recommended Posts

Kraai Watch Enthusiast

Kraai

Posted
Posted (edited)

A dial from a Bulle clock (model XC) looks dirty. Varnish remover does not help. Sanding and  resilvering is not possible because the letters are not engraved.

Please help, thanks, Kraai

 

Dial Bulle clock XC.JPG

Edited by Kraai
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 371
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

64americandeluxe
64americandeluxe

My dad's 30-ish year old Seiko has white crud at the 12:00 marker.  I think it is adhesive from an old repair (possibly a crystal repair with the dial still in the case?).  Any thoughts?  Would it be

Bill3
Bill3

Thank everyone who responded to my question about cleaning a watch dial. better What a treasure trove of useful information! I was doubly surprised to get so much good information, especially since t

Graziano
Graziano

Hi there LittleWatchShop ,on that particular dial I would go no further than saliva (enzyme solution ) on a q tip .It will not remove printing and lacquer only dirt and leave it at that. But don't do

Posted Images

Chopin Super WRT Addict

Chopin

Posted
Posted

Without messing it up you will only be able to clean it up by about 25% or so... Even that can be a tad risky, especially with the indexes, writing, numerals, etc.

It looks good as it is if you ask me. It has personality and patina. Not gonna be able to make it look brand new.

I would say that your only bet is to lightly tap the dial with some cleaning substance and some cotton and that's about it. If it'll remove some of the dirt then that'd be good enough.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mikecj Member

mikecj

Posted
Posted

Y'all,

Just purchased a 90 year old watch. It still runs. The only issue the dial face has some patina (read dirt), oxidation and minor paint loss. Can you provide me recommendations for:

1. Removing the dirt.

2. Dealing with the oxidation.

3. Replacing the lost paint.

The dial face appears to be paint on metal.

Thank you,

MikeCJ

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
carlos123 Watch Enthusiast

carlos123

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

 

I’ve recently got my hands on a Seiko divers watch which needs a little work. When I first got the watch I noticed what I thought was a fingerprint in the underside of the glass, however on removing the movement I noticed the mark was actually a shiny part of the dial rather than the matt finish.0dcebd3bf356e16fb8c90f3e51e85c9b.jpg

 

I’ve tried cleaning/lifting with Rodico and some solvent cleaner without any joy.

 

Does anyone know if there is any way to restore the Matt finish? I don’t really want to buy another dial as I prefer it to be original to the watch.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Carl

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites
AlexeiJ1 WRT Addict

AlexeiJ1

Posted
Posted

You know if you wanted to experiment? You could try some degreaser or light soap and then gently touch it with your finger, then rinse/dry.

Yes there is a risk the dial will be destroyed, but there is a chance it will remove the oil stain if that is indeed what it is.

I did ruin a dial that had battery acid damage by washing it - but it was still usable its just that the awesome patina from the acid was washed away with water.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
luiazazrambo Super WRT Addict

luiazazrambo

Posted
Posted

You could try to take a picture of it and edit (removing the dirt and to make it 1 to 1) it in GIMP for example then you could use the same technique what Mark used in his video: 

 I am not sure how difficult it would be to find a spare dial to use that for the experiment and not the original one. I also like the original as it is.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, luiazazrambo said:

You could try to take a picture of it and edit (removing the dirt and to make it 1 to 1) it in GIMP for example then you could use the same technique what Mark used in his video: 

GIMP is an image transformation tool with very poor technical drawing features. One needs Illustrator, or Inkscape to work on dial blueprints.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
wls1971 Distinguished Member

wls1971

Posted
Posted

I've used Gimp quite a lot for flat dials, just scan the original and edit out the defects, the beauty of this you can lay the new dial over the top of the old, so if in the future you decide you want a dial restorer to work on it you have preserved it for future restoration.

You can print on off white paper or card to make the dial look aged.IMG_20190613_0002.thumb.jpg.5c53cdbaba9a4b407a94892b6dde0966.jpg1300016454_clockdial.thumb.jpg.11226ab0a0458e9e042a24b15be8e406.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Hi  K  If its not a full on restoration I should give it a wipe over with mild soap and water then leave as is It got like that through the life it lead and is therefore the character of the clock.  I personally like to leave things alone as long as its not detremental to the operation of the clock, we all pick up a few cuts and bruises through life.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Lenj WRT Addict

Lenj

Posted
Posted

Also got me thinking, you may recall I wanted to get an Epee dial restored, but to expensive, I love what Mark did in his video, I was wondering if I could do the same, does it have to be printed with laser printer? or would normal printing be OK on the special paper??

 

Thanks Len

epee1aa.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
wls1971 Distinguished Member

wls1971

Posted
Posted

I've used all sorts of paper a high gloss photo paper printed on a inkjet does a good job of looking like an enamel dial. I use a canon inkjet there is a setting on it that puts more ink onto the paper for the blacks, Epson heavy weight matte paper is fantastic for  non glossy printed dials it has a very fine surface finish to the paper.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • ManSkirtBrew
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Waggy
      Rado rotor removal

      By Waggy · Posted

      Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • doober
      Rado rotor removal

      By doober · Posted

      Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Waggy
      Rado rotor removal

      By Waggy · Posted

      Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...