Jump to content

VIBROGRAF M 700 LED SCALE


Recommended Posts

well, given my curisolity and the fact that I was once a "pinball wizard" I had to have a look inside this device.  Sure enough just as I thought there was a chance that something on the power supply was not quite right.  This volatge regulator was broken off the board. UA78M12HC F7911 - 12V bipolar 3 pin.   $14.00 on ebay :)  will do some voltage testing before I order it.  So about the "pnball wizard" - long story short is I was the lead technican for an amusment company for 10 years.  1980 - 1990.  It was an assistent directory at Columbia University that gave me the nickname of "JerseyMo".   

IMG_0593.jpg

IMG_0594.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Interesting. Do you have any better images of the boards that show the IC part numbers?

Is that device  heatsinked on the case next to the power board another regulator or a power transistor?

Any date codes on those chips?

Is it a mix of analog and digital or all analog?

What does that long steel roller at the front do?

 

Edited by AndyHull
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, AndyHull said:

Interesting. Do you have any better images of the boards that show the IC part numbers?

Is that device  heatsinked on the case next to the power board another regulator or a power transistor?

Any date codes on those chips?

Is it a mix of analog and digital or all analog?

What does that long steel roller at the front do?

 

no more pics, as I have put this back together and will listings it fr sale  "AS IS".

yes, that is another regulator and I'd say it was the 5v.  

did not look for date codes.  all digital that roller is just part of the display assembly.  

Was a fun porject and I was happy with the result and even more that I was able to remember the bascis of the electronics related to the power supply. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
On ‎12‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 1:42 PM, JerseyMo said:

no more pics, as I have put this back together and will listings it fr sale  "AS IS".

yes, that is another regulator and I'd say it was the 5v.  

did not look for date codes.  all digital that roller is just part of the display assembly.  

Was a fun porject and I was happy with the result and even more that I was able to remember the bascis of the electronics related to the power supply. :)

Hi , Came across this post today ,  Where have you listed it, can I get the reference.

Rgds

Anton

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry Guys, 

I am  located in Germany.  Enjoy Measurement instruments related to  Time and Frequency Systems and have dabbled with the usual timers, hence keen to keep in touch with this topic. Not a watch Tech myself but more into electronics for daily bread.

Just joined up, & received the  email abt Forum rules. no reference to any commercial activity. How may I contact you  Jersey Mo. I believe a personal link for contact is allowed.

Nice to be here.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More pictures of inside.   I just now notice all of the ITT components. They had a huge facility on route 3 East, a few miles from where I now work.  The location has recenlty been converted to a shopping mall.  

IMG_0817.jpg

IMG_0818.jpg

IMG_0820.jpg

IMG_0821.jpg

Edited by JerseyMo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
  • 4 months later...
On 6/28/2022 at 11:44 PM, JayMcleran said:

Did any of you guys ever find a manual for one of these. I just purchased one myself and would be willing to pay for a copy of a manual if someone has one.

 

Thanks Jay

*****@*****.tld or

*****@*****.tld

no

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...
On 3/17/2023 at 12:01 PM, southwesttimers said:

 I don’t know if it is acceptable  on this site to respond.

It would be acceptable if it was a PDF and preferably not a super huge file size. Just on the rare cases somebody actually makes it here to find the discussion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
×
×
  • Create New...