Jump to content

Glass removing pump

Alaskamick

By Alaskamick
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

Alaskamick WRT Addict

Alaskamick

Posted
Posted

I know that the Glass Removing Pump is a good way to get domed crystals off front access watches to do a quick repair on the fingers but has anyone had experience of them and will they work with Seiko flat glasses which are pressed in.

They are not cheap but if ok could save loads of time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

Posted
Posted

U can use a large syringe instead of a pump. Put a piece of plastic bag like a ziplock bag over the crowntube and then the syringe over that . But use only on acrylic glasses. If you use it on mineral they could break. i have never seen a Seiko though  with such crystal. If they are front loaded they have a crystal retaining ring to hold the crystal in place. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Alaskamick WRT Addict

Alaskamick

Posted
  • Author
Posted
29 minutes ago, jdm said:

Which Seiko glasses exacly? If the watch has a removable case back, use a press not a pump.

I just thought it would be easier to use a Pump rather than fetching off the Back, Stem + Case Clamps then pressing out the crystal and having to do it all in reverse to put it back together.

No particular Seiko but I have done a couple recently with flat glasses that press in and out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
8 minutes ago, Alaskamick said:

I just thought it would be easier to use a Pump rather than fetching off the Back, Stem + Case Clamps then pressing out the crystal and having to do it all in reverse to put it back together.

No particular Seiko but I have done a couple recently with flat glasses that press in and out.

On even a 60m WR watch I don't think the glass would pop out as the gasket keeps it in place tightly.

To use a pump you have to remove caseback and stem, then refit the caseback but on Seiko 5 and divers (no casing tabs) the mov't would come out that point. Then to refit the glass a press is needed anyway.

That's why you should use a glass not a pump when the caseback can be removed.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • rjenkinsgb
      My first Gruens. Precision 510 and N510R movements.

      By rjenkinsgb · Posted

      Snap! I recently finished my Gruen 510 movement - though the case for mine is in a rather sad state; I'm going to try re-plating it (in nickel, it's not a gold one).   Re. the screws, I got a few of the one gram mixed batches from ebay. I've only needed a couple of screws for things so far, both rare, minuscule types - but both in the mix, after enough time sorting through them! The ones such as normal bridge screws are quite common in those lots.  
    • rjenkinsgb
      Any tips to correct a sloppy error?

      By rjenkinsgb · Posted

      Two pins or screwdrivers angled out slightly, pressing through from the barrel centre from the opposite side so they contact just clear of the hole in the lid? eg. Strap pin driver needles or similar.
    • Geotex
      Any tips to correct a sloppy error?

      By Geotex · Posted

      That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • GuyMontag
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
×
×
  • Create New...