I have drifted out of my lane of collecting and restoration of 1970s Seiko chronographs when purchasing a couple of Lord Elgin Direct Read Jump Hours this week, realizing I know little if nothing about Elgin jump hour calipers.
I am seeking both help and literature on the above referenced calipers before getting into these projects. Surprisingly, I found nothing on the Internet, other than reading about a dial spring that is easily lost during restoration, where it is I have no idea.
Now the projects.
The first is a “Lord Elgin 21 Jewel 1950's Direct Read Chevron Jump Hour” purchase from a jeweler’s estate with the movement out of the case. It appears to be immaculately restored, but needing the dials fitted and the assembly refitted into the case.
What is unclear here is if I have all the parts i.e. the mentioned dial spring, etc. for fitting the dial. The caliber is very clean and appears to have been service, runs very smoothly and consistent.
I’ve also read that it is tricky to get the jump hours to work smoothly.
Any help is appreciated.
The 2nd Elgin is a “719 LORD ELGIN Direct Read Jump Hour (Elvis Presley) , which needs the whole caboodle. I selected this watch because the case is relatively clean, still having sharp edges and logo, flawed only by the ding on the left edge and light surface scratches.
I’m currently looking for someone (reasonably priced) that does case restoration on “14K Gold Filled”, any leads and recommendations would be appreciated.
The caliber will follow and I’m still trying to establish a game plan on that, as well as finding the proper crown. I believe all three calipers referenced above are the same, varying only by the jewel count i.e. 17, 21, 23 respectively.
As always, your comments and help are appreciated.
I have used these with a drop of epoxy and these feet were very successful.
My technique was to put the feet into the movement, for a couple trial runs of setting the face in place on the movement resting on the feet pads. In my case I used a small O-ring around the Cannon pinion output that the dial hole would center on. I would then put a drop of epoxy on each pad and lower the dial into place, centered around the pinion o-ring. I should note that I put a thin layer of cellophane (saran wrap) down over the movement pressing the feet through it so that there was no chance of epoxy squeezing out onto the movement.
Having an engineering background I understand sheer force, and there's a lot of surface between these pads and dial-back, providing more than enough strength to hold the dial for many years (providing the epoxy does not give out). Not as good as welding but second-best and I was very happy with the outcome.
You get neater result with the jeweling tool.
I insert the jewel housing as far "in" or " out" whichever it takes to correctly position the staff. Correct staff position is one that nothings rubs, for one you would observe the fork not to rub on the roller neither the balance wheel on main plate..so on, you would also want adjust the end shake in the meanwhile, .01 mm or .02 mm is good for end shake.
Push from inside ( balance side) out towards the dial side.
Hi here are a few pics of my ultrasonic bought some years ago as aproject, got to get it done.
Its a british made National ultrasonic watch cleaner, It all works,motor,heater. The ultrasonic is dead and there is no life in the Valve(tube) 812A Amplifier so the clean up begins an then I shall get a valve for it..
What was the one you got JerseyMo, was it the same an 812A,?...