Jump to content

Bergeon 5700-Z and Horotec 07.130 Purchase?


LumeShot

Recommended Posts

Hi guys! I've been looking into upgrading some of my most used tools, and arguably, one of the most important tools I currently own. 

I've been reluctant to upgrade my caseback opener and crystal press to the upgraded, Bergeon 5700-Z and Horotec 07.130, due to their costs.

Currently, I'm using a chinese copy of the Bergeon 5700-Z, which has served me well, but the tolerances are not perfect. The bits that attach onto the bit holder do not sit parallel onto the casebacks I remove ( one sits slightly higher than the other ), which causes a large risk of slipping and scratching casebacks. In addition, the bit holder does not adjust evenly such that the bits don't move equidistantly from their respective sides, which makes it difficult to center the bits perfectly onto casebacks. 

As for the crystal press, I'm also using a chinese copy of what resembles the Horotec 07.130, except the lower threads don't sit on the actual base of the tool but are slightly elevated onto an intermediate plate. This leaves a small gap between the actual bottom dye and the base of the press. I've noticed that when applying a lot of pressure onto the tool when setting crystals, the intermediate base where the bottom dye rests on bends slightly down due to the applied force. The crystals seem to be going in very evenly so this has not been an issue, however, I like how the Horotec 07.130 has their dyes sitting on the actual base of the tool so that the bottom and type dye will always be parallel upon applying force downwards. 

 

This leaves me to ask, can anyone who owns the Bergeon 5700-Z and Horotec 07.130 provide their opinions about either tool? It is a rather large investment for someone who does not work on watches full time, but works on enough to consider it a part-time job. 

 

* Just a side question regarding the type of dyes to purchase for the Horotec 07.130*

I install both domed and flat crystals, but I'm unsure if the "Set of 12 Delrin Thread-on Dies for Fitting Very Domed Crystals" by horotec would be the best choice for my application.

 

Thank you everyone. 

 

The tools that I use right now 

s-l1600.thumb.jpg.76aab8be8fd84c627bfef8f67f871e3c.jpg1231119731_s-l1600(1).thumb.jpg.fa92100d028ec31329f26e4f0d86c9af.jpg

 

The tools that I am considering to upgrade to 

 

 

 

msa07_130.jpg.e548630f91bbfabf907506c747aa5a51.jpgpotenza-professionale-bergeon-n-5700-z.jpg.fed4906c50b1f05cbe7dc064e8d8a11f.jpg1937113308_ScreenShot2019-11-12at4_37_08PM.thumb.png.ec132ba3fe564d23cc8fb2c35fa2f496.png

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello,

I use the Bergeon 5700-Z... and I notice some extra work with the standard set. You always have to remove the strap or bracelet to fix the watch in the basic holder. Think they have a optional set so this will help the problem.

https://www.boley.de/en/shop/4168.case-holder/510358.case-holder

This problem is not present with the standard Horotec tool because of the different standard base and the Horotec is cheaper.

Horotec easy case opener press

Edited by Koen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just received the same Chinese crystal press you have,  and I had some of the same concerns about rigidity as you. Glad to hear that it hasn't been a significant issue.  I suppose if it does become a problem, it will be time to come up with a metal block to slip under the support.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Koen said:

I use the Bergeon 5700-Z... and I notice some extra work with the standard set. You always have to remove the strap or bracelet to fix the watch in the basic holder. Think they have a optional set so this will help the problem.

https://www.boley.de/en/shop/4168.case-holder/510358.case-holder

Same, for a reasonable price: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2029153808.html

BTW, my Chinese 5700 doesn't any of the issues described by the OP, and works perfectly. However, the casting isn't perfect, and the some of the bits sent were duplicated. I remedied that easily on the lathe,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, LumeShot said:

Currently, I'm using a chinese copy of the Bergeon 5700-Z, which has served me well, but the tolerances are not perfect. The bits that attach onto the bit holder do not sit parallel onto the casebacks I remove ( one sits slightly higher than the other ), which causes a large risk of slipping and scratching casebacks.

I think that can be caused only by the square pieces that hold the bits to be different height, and/or the bits themselves to not be accurate. It should be correctable without any special tool.

19 hours ago, LumeShot said:

In addition, the bit holder does not adjust evenly such that the bits don't move equidistantly from their respective sides, which makes it difficult to center the bits perfectly onto casebacks. 

Check that the square parts mentioned above are assembled correctly, that is they are inserted on the same turn of the threaded bar. Also, avoid tightening their knobs, so they can align better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello everybody, sorry for the late reply. Thank you all so much for your help and your tips. I got lucky and found a replacement wheel bridge for cheap which actually ended up being in decent condition. I decided not to do anything about the mainspring barrel pivot since I didn't have the right tools and the barrel didn't have much endshake anyhow. I am happy to report that the watch now runs great, I have regulated it to about +-10/s day which is fine by my standards. The timegrapher result looks decent as well, although beat error is around 0.6ms which could be better I suppose. Amplitude reaches over 230 quite consistently which I'm happy with also. My lighter fluid has also been replaced by balance spring cleaning solution and now the springs don't stick to themselves anymore - who would have thought. I'm super happy with this watch, it might not be worth a whole lot but it's awesome that I could restore it and it makes me wear it with pride. To me it's a genuinely good lucking watch, it'll be my daily driver for a while. Thanks again to everybody for their input! I couldn't have done the repair without your help.   Here are some images for those interested, the bracelet isn't original but I don't really mind:    
    • Balance-hairspring system is oscillator with big Q-factor. When all in the movement is OK, the rate (frequency) is verry close to the own resonant frequency of the balance-hairspring. But in some cases, the movement (with foult) will force the resonator to work on pritty different frequency, sometimes faster, and sometimes slower. When this happens, the amplitude is always weak. So, the first thing to ask is what is the amplitude. If it is more than 180 and the hairspring doesn't touch itself and anything else, then for sure it is 'short'. If the amplitude is weak, then the first thing to do is to understand why and rectify the problem. At this time no point to check timekeeping. But, if one doubts that the hairspring is not correct, then He needs to calcullate the rate of the movement, then to 'vibrate' the balance-hairspring out of the movement and to measure the free oscillations frequency (period) with timer in order to ensure that they comply with the rate. If we have pictures, then it will be easier to tell something about that wheel.
    • So much work has gone into this! Thanks again @Jon. I will go back and check my adjustments from last weekend. A few questions for you, if you don't mind. In the reset position, I can understand the problem if the gap between the hammer and the minute counter heart is too big (slide 77) but what is bad about both hammers being in contact with the cams (slide 76)? I read somewhere that Landeron recommended grease on the runner cam, but the minute counter heart should be dry. Is that so, and why? How many tads in a ligne?
×
×
  • Create New...