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Pallet Warmer Project


Mark

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Editing a video on the construction at the moment. 

Need to reset the pallet stones in a vostok which was loaded up with too much shellac. Unfortunately my pallet warmer is missing - searched high and low - I suspect it's in pallet warmer heaven. So I made a new one. Hopefully this will be an interesting video for some. In fact - I made two. Will do a giveaway to a winner for one of them. Details will be announced in my next video which will show how I made these and the video after that will the Vostok restoration where I will demonstrate how they are used.

In the meantime - if anybody wants to build one themselves, I have attached the plans to this post. If you do make one then post pics :)

pallets.jpg

pallet-warmer.jpg

pallet-warmer2.jpg

pallet_warmer_sketch.png

pallet_warmer_sketch2.png

Pallet Warmer Plans.pdf

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Nice one, thanks for the plans.... Strangely enough I was just looking for mine before reading this and found it.
Maybe your lost one is with Bagpuss?
1996946093_20191111_1252421.thumb.jpg.ca93f72c392349a88ce9b5395c8aa033.jpg
Yikes - bagpuss. Now that's a blast from the past!

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32 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi  Likewise Old H do you remenber Andy Pandy and Teddy , Watch with Mother,   not forgetting the Interlude....

Watch with Mother Monday

Andy Pandy Tuesdays

Rag Tag and Bobtail Wednesday

Bill and Benn Thursday

The Wooden Tops Friday.  

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A nice video Mark. What type of lathe are you using?
@oldhippy Sorry for late reply.
It's a mini bench lathe made by a company called Optimum. A relatively new addition to the workshop along with the mill.
761cd7f46b1fd130a335b5ee54b960dc.jpgefd09d341be590b70a66549f5ac6e60a.jpg

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1 hour ago, TheFixer said:

I have the copper plate so just need some brass.

Any chance of a picture with the wooden holder without the tool itself?

You can see it clearly in the video Mark uploaded, he shows the machining out process but it could be easily done with a chisel or by tacking sides onto a flat piece.

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On 11/15/2019 at 10:59 PM, oldhippy said:

Thank's Mark for the reply and nice photo. That's a new one on me I'll look that one up. 

Is it the Light Duty Lathe Optimum TU2004V 240v Variable Speed?

Absolutely - thats the one. So far I have had a few issues with it but noting major.

The gib in the compound slide was bent - easy fix but I need maybe add a couple more gib screws to make it more smooth and it came with an extraordinary amount of grit on the lead screws and ways. This is common with chinese lathes I think but didn't expect it with "German quality" - lesson learned :D

I would like to install a thrust bearing too, to minimise  backlash. But the parts I have made so far are quite accurate not bad for a light duty lathe. Not unhappy.

 

13 hours ago, TheFixer said:
I have the copper plate so just need some brass.
Any chance of a picture with the wooden holder without the tool itself?

There you go9fd5114a1d5f9cd0f0957a0133eaa82d.jpg

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8 hours ago, Mark said:

Absolutely - thats the one. So far I have had a few issues with it but noting major.

The gib in the compound slide was bent - easy fix but I need maybe add a couple more gib screws to make it more smooth and it came with an extraordinary amount of grit on the lead screws and ways. This is common with chinese lathes I think but didn't expect it with "German quality" - lesson learned :D

I would like to install a thrust bearing too, to minimise  backlash. But the parts I have made so far are quite accurate not bad for a light duty lathe. Not unhappy.

 

There you go9fd5114a1d5f9cd0f0957a0133eaa82d.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

Thank you Mark that is very helpful.

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  • 4 weeks later...


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    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
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    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
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