Jump to content

Technique to untangle hairspring coils ?


mikepilk

Recommended Posts

Taking this balance from the cock, I managed to get the hairspring coils tangled. 

Does anyone have a technique to untangle the coils?

Last time this happened, I tried to pull the coils apart with 2 pairs of tweezers - accidentally released the pressure on one pair ..... 
and I'm still looking for a new hairspring on a (very very hard to find) Universal Geneve Cal 267

This is a cheap Poljot - but I'd still like to figure it out.

Thanks

Mike

0002.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're able, remove the hairspring via the collet, this frees up the weight of the balance.

I find a combination of either 2 #5 tweezers or one of those and an oiler with a 10X loupe works reasonably well, the key is patience, if you feel yourself getting impatient walk away for a bit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, m1ks said:

If you're able, remove the hairspring via the collet, this frees up the weight of the balance.

I find a combination of either 2 #5 tweezers or one of those and an oiler with a 10X loupe works reasonably well, the key is patience, if you feel yourself getting impatient walk away for a bit.

I'd just put the hairspring back on after tightening the collet. I thought I was suddenly getting great amplitude and no beat error before I realised the collet was loose !

I put it on a balance tack to work on, but that didn't seem to help.

I recently bought a stereo microscope which makes fiddling with hairsprings so much easier.  I always found it very difficult with a 10x loupe as the working distance is so small.

I was thinking of pinning it down, then running a fine oil round the coils starting from the collet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pinning down and running a needle through circles as you say, works, I have done it many times, but you may find that stud  hinders untangling specially as you get to outer coils. I always unpin and seperate the stud from HS. Like so                                          Remove HS off of the wheel. Re instal stud back in stud holder hole, tighten its screw, push on the sharp point of micro pin with flat face of a thin screwdriver and grab the thick end of the micro pin in tweezers to shake it loose, repeat several times pin will eventually loosen and come out.                                                                                    Proceed to untangle. You may find circles out of round /center/ unlevel.   Removing the stud greatly increase chances of success.    Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most adapt their own methods. I find using a microscope & fine tweezers & a needle works normally. But manipulating hairsprings is extremely difficult because too much manipulation will result in the spring breaking. I speak from experience.  A donor movement is the best route if possible, finding the correct hairspring replacement is also difficult.  This in many ways is why horology becomes compulsive. 

I know this is now obvious but the handling if the balance and hairspring requires the utmost care and attention. Watch Marks vids and see how a pro treats this area. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used a piece of paper with a small slit. Starting at the collet and moving the paper in a circle to follow the coil . This keeps the tangled part above the paper and easier to untangle with tweezers as you rotate the paper and move your way outward.

Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jdrichard said:

I have used a piece of paper with a small slit. Starting at the collet and moving the paper in a circle to follow the coil . This keeps the tangled part above the paper and easier to untangle with tweezers as you rotate the paper and move your way outward.

Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Genius! That's a great suggestion. I will need to try that.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I managed to get the tangle out without taking the hairspring off. I used a clean oiler and ran it outward from the collet. Then some fine tweezers to lift the coils. I have good a couple of kinks to sort out. 

New balances are available from Cousin's for only £10 but I wanted to learn how to do this. 

Thanks for to suggestions. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
On 11/12/2019 at 5:54 AM, jdrichard said:

I have used a piece of paper with a small slit. Starting at the collet and moving the paper in a circle to follow the coil . This keeps the tangled part above the paper and easier to untangle with tweezers as you rotate the paper and move your way outward.

Thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Could you describe this in a bit more detail? Do you mean you slot the hairspring collet into the slit of the paper and rotate the hairspring under the paper?

Also, how do you remove the hairspring without distorting the arms of the balance wheel, or kinking the hairspring where it attaches to the collet? I haven’t had good experience with lever type tools, or using a blade.

So far, I had hairsprings that started with tangled but still flat, to untangled but out of flat in multiple locations, to unrecoverable.

Edited by ifibrin
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Don't stop there, those railroad spade hands want to be polished and re-blued too!
    • The Wizard did it 👌 I got the case back and went to take the movement out of the old case and broke the balance staff, went to 8 jewelers etc, all told me it would be a £300 service, had an old half watch (ww2 waltham) that I bought to try dial luming and put the balance wheel from that and as soon as I slid it into the palet, without even screwing down the balance plate, it started ticking 🙂 all working now, with balance and case all fine. Gonna get the case plated and re-line the box now. Thanks to everyone for their help and insight. Much appreciated 👌
    • You might be able to make some money off of that.  👍
    • So, finally managed to snag myself a staking set from eBay. It's a vintage Boley and Leinen set and it looks a bit rough - this is OK as I didn't pay a lot of money for it. Some of the punches look like they have been used to drift out truck wheel bearings! Anyway, I am planning on cleaning up the punches (soak in Evaporust followed by chucking them up in my drill and polish with wire wool and oil) plus working on the ends with an oil stone /Emery cloth to debur and tidy up. I will also make a new lid for the box and repaint the 'anvil' (this is the non-functional part of the restoration, purely for beauty 😉). Do staking punches come in a common size? 5mm? If so can I buy replacements / new to pad out and complete my set? I had a look on Cousins and they only sold complete sets, not individual punches so I am guessing that I would need to find odd used punches on eBay rather than being able to buy new replacements.  I haven't received the set yet so can't measure the punches but they look a similar diameter to others.   
    • The belief that only Chinese clone shock springs and not genuine Incablocs come loose is a myth. I worked on a ladies Omega a few months ago and being a genuine Omega, I was a little cavalier when opening the shock springs. The upper jewel was fine but the spring of the bottom jewel took flight when I swung it open.  There was a little gap between the chaton and the main plate and this was how the spring managed to slip out. Had a real hard time getting it back in, as the gap was so small. So now, regardless of whether it's a clone or genuine Incabloc, I always use a pegwood stick to prevent the spring from getting anywhere near the back of the hinge where it may slip out.
×
×
  • Create New...