I am considering selling leather watch straps, but I have a question before I blindly go ahead and produce a bunch of them.
I am wondering if anybody who has worked in the industry for a while can tell me what the most common sizes are of strap pins or lug widths?
I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
Anyone know a supplier that would have orient watch parts. In general orient doesn’t supply parts I guess and it’s been hard to find on eBay. I have an EM60 repair. The crystal was damaged and whatever damaged it burned through and burnt the inner bezel and I cannot find a bezel with the same markings. Any help would be awesome.
Hi all. I'm absolutely brand new to the world of mechanical watches, but have always been fascinated by the way they functioned. So, I took my first step into them, getting myself a cheap, crappy ebay mechanical watch with a chinese movement. I knew that by all accounts this would be a rubbish movement and mechanism, however I wanted something that I could take a look at without risking any sort of investment, gauge my interest in the hobby etc. However, after receiving it, one of my friends let me know that he had a near identical cheap watch that was broken, and offered me to have a look at it as practice. I agreed, and have spent the last few days doing research and taking it apart, before putting it back together again. I've managed to learn quite a lot from it, however I've found that when putting it back together again, the pole of the escape wheel that keeps it in place either end seems to be too short, as though something had broken off. This means the wheel is sat basically loose and wont reach the crystals at either side to keep it in place while it spins. I see no way to fix this, so i intended to get a new wheel to replace it with, however I can't find the name of this type of movement anywhere. It is the kind used in this: ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jechin-Skeleton-Hand-Wind-Leather-Mechanical/dp/B00VPRZC50/ref=asc_df_B00VPRZC50/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=290896788181&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13027367026987882679&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9047006&hvtargid=aud-545868369748:pla-468442151749&psc=1 ) . If I really wanted to I think I could just order one of the other watches that I've found that use this movement for £5-6, however I was hoping I might be able to keep to my strict student budget and get just the escape wheel somewhere. Does anyone know where I'd be able to find something like that?
p.s. Apologies for the lack of knowledge on the subject, I know I'll come across a bit new to the whole thing, but trying to learn as I go
I am now working on a vintage "trench watch" movement from 1910s that I mentioned before with a question regarding identification of the movement.
(I still haven't got the exact ref. of the movement.)
As I was disassembling the movement, my screwdriver slipped and broke one of the parts that function as a spring for the click.
I tried looking for replacement but I am not sure what I should look for.
Also, one of the jewels on the wheel bridge is broken so I need a jewel as well.
Could anyone advice me on how to find the correct part for click spring and the jewel for the wheel bridge??
**Could the click spring be put back together??
Thanks. You are always of great help.
If this is inappropriate, please delete the post.
I have an acquaintance who is closing his shop due to health after 43 years. He has a large quantity of parts, stems, crowns, crystals and all the paraphernalia one would accumulate after a long period in the business. He needs to liquidate his shop. This isn't a "Hey do you have a __ for a __." kind of post. We're talking serious stuff here. Mass quantities. If you need parts, equipment, etc. for your practice, please let me know. I will pass along his email contact to you. Obviously, this is useful primarily only to those in the U.S. due to shipping costs. But he has a huge amount of useful goods and is 100 miles South of Atlanta. PM me if you need something.
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your model is a Sprite and it has a 5/8" lug gap. the kelton (France) you show would have worked just fine as it is basically the same. Kelton was a brand Timex purchased and continued to sell under as they did with Saga and others.
here you go...
You're right, I should contact them regarding the residue. I tried a few different approaches with no luck. I have had the S10 about two years now. It's been great, horrible on the ears but all ultrasonics are. I'm an analytical chemist and have used lots and lots of different Elmas and never had any problem with them, which is the big reason I splashed out on it. I think for the time scales of heating here there is no real need to get the H. The pallet fork and balance assembly I just give the two rinses in distilled water following the 1:9, and a quick 10 second dip in the IPA. It seems to work well cleaning oiled up balance springs. I make sure to blow dry the parts so the IPA isn't sitting on the shellac. I don't use a basket, but two glass jars with rubber sealed lids, and within these I have the parts either loose (like the plates) or in small mesh baskets
Hey JBerry, not late to the party at all! Read on… John, what kind of cloth do you use? I have been using watchmaker’s tissue paper soaked in Horolene but the result is not what I’d like, mainly towards the centre where it is all very close together. I came across Mark’s video where he places the mainspring in a separate basket with no dividers on it’s own and then another basket with parts on the top of it. Should you want to see it, it’s here, time 8:28 I haven’t decided which ultrasonic to go for as yet although I’m leaning towards the S10H. The price is steep considering that the basket needs to be purchased separately, several beakers for the solutions, beaker holder and even basket support clips to minimalise damage to the tank and basket! It all adds up. I was and still am tempted to save the money and buy a cheap one but I already have one that does not work, most importantly they tend to have 5 min limit, it’s not enough for 2 or more cycles. The S Line can be set from 1 to 30 minutes and have safety cut out after 12 hours continuous use. I also have the Suprol Pro and will certainly try it out. I contacted Elma, they recommended the 1:9 and the Suprol Pro for ultrasonic bath and watch parts, that’s why I purchased them. I would contact them again if I have residue on parts and ask them whether I’m doing anything wrong. They manufacture it and should have an answer to that. Knowing myself I’ll probably end up trying all different solutions, Greiner, L&R and see what works best. Pitty they don’t sell small testers. Have you had the S10 a while and or used it extensively? I presume you don’t use the IPA on the pallet fork and impulse pin, how do you rinse off the 1:9? Guys, thank you very much for your input.
It all depends upon whose procedures you going to follow? Let's see if I can figure out how to word so not confusing? So there is probably more than two methods but originally when I was in school I was taught to evaluate the watch make your repairs once the watch is functional then it's Disassembled and cleaned and we go off with assembly lubrication rating etc. The reason for this is once the watch is nice and clean and properly lubricated other than minor regulation if you have to be disassembling the watch or taking the balance wheel out multiple times you will screw up the lubrication. That means if you screw it up you basically have to clean it again and start over. In modern shops and the modern schools there now teaching pre-cleaning. They do not like to work on dirty watches they like clean watches because they feel they can see things better. So movement assembled is run through a special machine They usually has a shorter cleaning cycle. The other reason it's a separate machine is to keep the cleaning fluid in the final cleaning machine much cleaner. Now you can evaluate the watch do the repairs on a clean watch then it's taken all apart Clean and lubricated minor regulation same as above then.