I want to replace the six (6) tiny screws on the back of this Cartier quartz watch. Does anyone know where I can buy new ones at a modest price? I will change them when I change the battery. If anyone knows where I can buy a new seal at the same time then that would be a bonus!
Must de Cartier 21
Red crocodile skin strap (Made in Austria CMK – Cartier KD40ZF02), silver and gold face with red numbering, blue hands, blue sapphire jewel winder
Water Resistant 1340
greetings all-been a few months since I've visited hope all is well with everyone. question: do any charts exist telling of American screw thread sizes for vintage pocket watches? I seem to be having a tough time finding anything other than the fact that back then prior to the 1955 "thread summit" I'll call it, where the European and American powers-that-be agreed on a universal standard thread pitch across the board(UNM miniature), that European was metric and American was their standard inch pitches, with the exception of Elgin and Waltham, who made their own specific(adding to my frustrating confusion) threads. I have threaded holes I need to repair and/or chase, and I'd just like to have it handy if I need it. maybe I haven't looked deep enough?
I own an old Elgin pocket watch and am trying to remove the screws to the main barrel and the stem but they are extremely tight to the point that I'm finding it impossible to remove them - even with a lot of force and pressure.
I do not want to damage my watch as it is an antique but at the same time do not want to send it to a professional if I can get it undone myself.
I've tried different sized screwdrivers to no avail, and understanding that it is a no-no, I've even used a cotton swab to apply WD-40 directly to the screw. I do not know if the screw has rusted or not - the watch itself is immaculate so I see no reason for the screws alone to rust.
Does anybody have experience removing stuck screws from their watches or pocket watches? These things are absolutely tiny!
I recently acquired a beautiful 1954 Omega with a near-mint 266 movement.
Which I have posted about in another question regarding broken screw extraction.
You can't tell from this photo - but one of the movement case mounting screws is broken in half.
I believe I should be able to extract the broken part of the screw - thanks to the help of members input on that other post.
BUT - now my question is, where to find replacement screw(s) [specifically the case movement mounting screws]?
My preference would be to find something that looks correct - but if that's not possible, then something that looks good and works.
I didn't think it would be that difficult - but I haven't been able to find anything thus far.
Any ideas or source would be greatly appreciated.
Most of my learning efforts are on old, vintage movements; some in great shape, some not so much. I often find a screw or two that are stuck tight. Not rusted, just "aged-in-place" I try typically to put a drop of 9010 on the back side of the screw hole and let them sit and soak. Sometimes this works well. I gently heat them by moving my work light close to the movement and allow them to cool which may help move lubricant into the threads.
When this doesn't work, I'm stuck (no pun intended). Have you a method that also help loosen these old screws up? If so, please share it.
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It is very hard to see that line on my case. But the ring must be there. I attached a couple of pics. One is the top of the case - you can see that the crystal came loose on one side. I tried to get the same view you did in the other pic. Not sure if you can see it. So is it possible to push the ring out from inside? Also what is the best source for a new crystal? Thanks much for your photo!
Hello, I have a problem with my ETA2801-2. Initially the watch was running great, but it was skipping while winding. I guess I made a mistake and pulled the train bridge in order to check the mainspring, afterwards I figured that wasn’t necessary. Anyway, after putting everything back together it was running with low amplitude and became impossible to regulate to anything over -120spd. I decided to pull the bridge again, and clean all associated parts in ultrasonic, and re-lubricate. Unfortunately nothing has changed, it still runs with low amplitude - about 230 and there is no way to make it run any faster than -120spd. What could be the reason behind it? Here is how it looks like on a time grapher.