Jump to content

adjusting lower jewel


AP1875

Recommended Posts

I need to adjust the main plate lower jewel, move it down slightly. Would i use a staking set to accomplish this?

If so, i will purchase one. Is there anything i should look for in a set? Looks like another rabbit hole, lots of different options and parts you can buy..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I need to adjust the main plate lower jewel, move it down slightly. Would i use a staking set to accomplish this?
If so, i will purchase one. Is there anything i should look for in a set? Looks like another rabbit hole, lots of different options and parts you can buy..

Is this on a pocket watch? Is the jewel friction fit? Need some photos. I would use a seitz jeweling set.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

it is an automatic movement, Chinese. I would also like to practice removing the jewels on automatic movements and replacing them with new. i have an eta 2824, 2892 and 7750.I'm just curious, something i want to learn. I don't really come across pocket watches, just the modern automatics (if that makes a difference?). Any advice appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,
it is an automatic movement, Chinese. I would also like to practice removing the jewels on automatic movements and replacing them with new. i have an eta 2824, 2892 and 7750.I'm just curious, something i want to learn. I don't really come across pocket watches, just the modern automatics (if that makes a difference?). Any advice appreciated.

I have a lot of videos on YouTube addressing watch repair, and I think one of replacing jewels.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes staking set is possible. Usually easier when the jewel is flat with the plate. It it is inset then you have no way of controlling play. I pressed out a broken jewel on an omega chronograph plate and replaced it with a random identical jewel from a Russian movement. It was flat with the mainplate so a larger staking tool with a flat bottom did fine. I did cross my fingers when I did it. 

Seitz tool ideal. Much more expensive (staking set cost me $70) 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a question, did you discover a problem which requires lowering the jewel? This is only a problem to correct endshake and interaction with other wheels must be considered as well.

If its just correcting a loose jewel thats fine but if not then I would sit back and re-assess.

Anilv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, anilv said:

Just a question, did you discover a problem which requires lowering the jewel? This is only a problem to correct endshake and interaction with other wheels must be considered as well.

If its just correcting a loose jewel thats fine but if not then I would sit back and re-assess.

Anilv

Yes it is to correct endshake. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I made an impulse buy, a K&D inverto. I read these are good tools so just purchased it. It arrived today and it looks like it was a bad idea (surprise surprise). 

The thread that at the top of the tool is completely bent. Is this going to cause me problems? I have 30 days to return it. I haven't had a chance to examine all of the other items yet... 

 

20191024_165200.jpg

15719331186413971414841012531961.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

Looks so shiny and new AP. Are punches as new?  

 

They came in separate packaging, there's quite a few. I thought I'd leave them wrapped until I have some time to examine them. I literally opened the box and saw the bent stud and did a big sigh.... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These are considered a good staking set because you can get a jewelling lever attachment making them a jewelling tool as well, I assume that the bent screw is for part of the lever assembly for the jewelling tool but stand to be corrected as my own staking tool is a simpler item. 

For staking, as long as the plate is flat and can be centred and locked and the stake can be inserted and drop straight it should be good. If someone with a k&d can advise on the threaded bar you might be OK and then keep an eye out for a jewelling set. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, m1ks said:

These are considered a good staking set because you can get a jewelling lever attachment making them a jewelling tool as well, I assume that the bent screw is for part of the lever assembly for the jewelling tool but stand to be corrected as my own staking tool is a simpler item. 

For staking, as long as the plate is flat and can be centred and locked and the stake can be inserted and drop straight it should be good. If someone with a k&d can advise on the threaded bar you might be OK and then keep an eye out for a jewelling set. 

Thank you for your advice. I will wait for the opinion of others. It would be great if I could use it as a jewling tool as well. Hopefully It can be saved.... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I place a plastic sheet on the jewel and press on it,  be it with steel punch or wooden.

Avoid hitting, just press. Any caution, not to damage the jewel.  

The jewel may jump out of it's  hole, reinsert from inside of  ebauche. 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

I place a plastic sheet on the jewel and press on it,  be it with steel punch or wooden.

Avoid hitting, just press. Any caution, not to damage the jewel.  

The jewel may jump out of it's  hole, reinsert from inside of  ebauche. 

 

 

 

Which tool do you use?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use the tube section of a bad crown to press on the outer rim of the jewel housing, pushing it a bit ( inward in ebauche) , next use a wooden stick pressing to push the housing outward of the ebauche( May take three  tries to get to acceptable move of the stone) Same approach for embeded jewels in bridges and mainplate.

Having done this to adjust end shake on nearly all arbors for so long, I have got good at it, will probably break jewels if I tried with dedicated tools.

Since you have already bought a staking set, I recommend using stakiing set, staying  with one tool, you,ll  master it sooner or later. 

I have planned to device a tool out of bracelete pin remover, for its micrometer action, lazy though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Going back to the above, I believe this is the attachment that will fit your tool though reading Nucejoes comment it may be that you can manage without?
This is a US ebay link but you should be able to find similar if you're not in the US, it was the first quick search link I could find.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/K-D-Jeweling-Tool-Attachment-Watchmaking-Watchmakers-tool-Staking-sets/123885373754?hash=item1cd824c93a:g:eFgAAOSwMG1dYWs3

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
×
×
  • Create New...