Jump to content

The impossible task to find a sweeping seconds hand...


Recommended Posts

Hey! :-)

 

Before I ask you guys for some advice, I’d like to thank everybody that maintains and participates in this beautiful place of knowledge.

 

Today, I’m asking for advise in finding a very specific shape and style of a sweeping center seconds hand that I try to replace. The shape seems rather simple, yet I’ve struggled to find the right length or specific shape of what I’m looking for.

 

Here is a technical drawing:

 

f4cb360613e1b946282ddbad4764081f.jpg

 

I’m looking for a long arrowed center seconds hand in blued steel with 18.5mm total length. The tube should ideally be fitting a 0.25mm pinion although I can also broach or refit it in case I cannot find the right tube size. The length seems to be the main problem. Anybody got an idea / a source / THIS hand in their parts bin to help me out?

 

Thank you very very much in advance!

All the best!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In lieu of someone coming up with the hand you need, or a source to buy from, I've got something that probably fits into your category of an idea! 

You can pick up generic second hands relatively inexpensively from a source like Cousins: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/centre-seconds-by-size; they do the 0.25mm you need. Now whilst it looks like the longest they do is only 15mm note this is from the centre hole to the end; not the entire length. How long is the entire hand? I'm not sure but if I take their scale diagram and do a very simplistic split-the-15mm-into-four I get 3.75mm per quarter. If I then transpose that quarter to the remaining length I can see the entire length will be over the 18.5mm you need:

image.png.42109849deac6165810942ebb36519d5.png

But you require a squared off end ... so you could carefully file to the length and profile you need. Bingo!

Ah ... but it's not blue. Well that's now over to your requirements and skills. Painting (e.g. airbrushing) is straightforward or you could look at any of the helpful online resources videos on how to hot blue (stainless) steel. 

Edited by WatchMaker
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bluing  can be tough..it is a chemical  process involving  nasty chemicals. I would  advise against  it.a blue black finish  can be achieved  pretty  easily with different  phosphate  solutions  that are available. Often  advertised  as rust converter. They  change  iron oxide into iron phosphate. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bluing  can be tough..it is a chemical  process involving  nasty chemicals. I would  advise against  it.a blue black finish  can be achieved  pretty  easily with different  phosphate  solutions  that are available. Often  advertised  as rust converter. They  change  iron oxide into iron phosphate. 

 

When the hand is made of steel, only heat is needed :-)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, hautehorloge said:

 

When the hand is made of steel, only heat is needed :-)

This is very true, in the process of heating, as in when tempering, steel does go through different colors  .I do not recall the exact temperatures however.But I do recall that blue is in the spectrum.However I would think that heating such a small piece of metal of an unspecified alloy to an exact temperature to obtain an exact color could require so much art and science as to border on magic.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is very true, in the process of heating, as in when tempering, steel does go through different colors  .I do not recall the exact temperatures however.But I do recall that blue is in the spectrum.However I would think that heating such a small piece of metal of an unspecified alloy to an exact temperature to obtain an exact color could require so much art and science as to border on magic.

 

The hand should not be hit by the heat directly but lay in a bed of brass filings. It will change colors starting with a dark yellow to purple to royal blue to grey blue. Royal blue is usually reached with 290°C / 550°F. The Swiss do it. So I can do it :-D The magic really is to remove the heat immediately and cool down once the object has reached the desired color.

 

But I won’t say no to a blued hand, ready to be mounted of course. :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Never and others. Yes like you I do spend a fair amount of time reading the contents of this forum. I find it better that any other. clear, lucid, no Prima Donas, and most of all an easy access without adverts. All thanks to Mark. God bless you mate. You give so much to many of us. What if? No Mark? Hypothetically. A forum. I did run a forum for a few years. Really enjoyed it, but became so engrossed that it did affect my health. I gave to to others to run. Not been back. It was very successful and rivalled a number of large paying sites. No adverts, no others but me. I did ask and listen to members comments and it worked well.    Costs Having a domain name, £10 annually.  Register the site with a forum company, free. Build the site using the forum company guide lines, free. It looked and ran almost the same a Mark's. All the same facilities. The cost was only £5 per month, but counted visits (views). If I recall, it was that price for 5,000 views. Each extra 5,000 views increased the price by £2 per month. Success was my own personal undoing. From £5 per month initially, it rose to £60 a month and looked like increasing. This was 10 years ago. I could not afford that, and asked it anyone would like to take over and someone did. I would assume that this is the price that Mark is funding for us all. His return is our continued comments on the internet about his course, and the fact that many of the big names on YouTube mention him as their Tutor. Those of us who have done, and are still using, his course, benefit. In comparison to other courses, I can't believe how cheap it is, and the value is exceptional. It is the structure that gives the value. Long may Mark reign. Ross  
    • Get someone local to tig it ,very easy fix and should only take a few minutes so probably wouldn’t cost much ,or failing that get it very clean and silver solder it. Dell
    • Hi, The winding pin is not split, well that's how it was when I obtained the watch. The movement is front-loaded and here's a picture of where the case screws are fitted. The face picture is before I dismantled it. Quick update.  I've always had a nylon ring sitting in the parts try that I wasn't sure where it went and left it to the last thing as I know it must be part of the case assembly. Anyway, looking at the picture in my last post you can see, just under the winding stem, a white-looking object, this is the nylon ring 🤭 So, I had to remove the dial again and replace the ring. Once this was all back together I placed the movement in the case and realized my initial problem maybe is not a problem as it looks like I can screw the movement back in the case and then place the hands as the dial is nearly flush with the outside of the case anyway so I'll be able to check for alignment. if all is good then just fit the crystal and bezel 🤔 I can't think of any issues with this approach but please comment if you think I've not thought of something. Another lesson learned as well. Take more pictures not just of the movement parts and location 😅
    • I dont think mine is. Its an idea to have them all in one place if possible, then a quick screenshot will have them saved. Unless anyone has any other ideas of how to reconnect 
    • My email address is in my profile, feel free all to drop me a quick hello. 
×
×
  • Create New...