Jump to content

The impossible task to find a sweeping seconds hand...


Recommended Posts

Hey! :-)

 

Before I ask you guys for some advice, I’d like to thank everybody that maintains and participates in this beautiful place of knowledge.

 

Today, I’m asking for advise in finding a very specific shape and style of a sweeping center seconds hand that I try to replace. The shape seems rather simple, yet I’ve struggled to find the right length or specific shape of what I’m looking for.

 

Here is a technical drawing:

 

f4cb360613e1b946282ddbad4764081f.jpg

 

I’m looking for a long arrowed center seconds hand in blued steel with 18.5mm total length. The tube should ideally be fitting a 0.25mm pinion although I can also broach or refit it in case I cannot find the right tube size. The length seems to be the main problem. Anybody got an idea / a source / THIS hand in their parts bin to help me out?

 

Thank you very very much in advance!

All the best!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In lieu of someone coming up with the hand you need, or a source to buy from, I've got something that probably fits into your category of an idea! 

You can pick up generic second hands relatively inexpensively from a source like Cousins: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/centre-seconds-by-size; they do the 0.25mm you need. Now whilst it looks like the longest they do is only 15mm note this is from the centre hole to the end; not the entire length. How long is the entire hand? I'm not sure but if I take their scale diagram and do a very simplistic split-the-15mm-into-four I get 3.75mm per quarter. If I then transpose that quarter to the remaining length I can see the entire length will be over the 18.5mm you need:

image.png.42109849deac6165810942ebb36519d5.png

But you require a squared off end ... so you could carefully file to the length and profile you need. Bingo!

Ah ... but it's not blue. Well that's now over to your requirements and skills. Painting (e.g. airbrushing) is straightforward or you could look at any of the helpful online resources videos on how to hot blue (stainless) steel. 

Edited by WatchMaker
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bluing  can be tough..it is a chemical  process involving  nasty chemicals. I would  advise against  it.a blue black finish  can be achieved  pretty  easily with different  phosphate  solutions  that are available. Often  advertised  as rust converter. They  change  iron oxide into iron phosphate. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bluing  can be tough..it is a chemical  process involving  nasty chemicals. I would  advise against  it.a blue black finish  can be achieved  pretty  easily with different  phosphate  solutions  that are available. Often  advertised  as rust converter. They  change  iron oxide into iron phosphate. 

 

When the hand is made of steel, only heat is needed :-)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, hautehorloge said:

 

When the hand is made of steel, only heat is needed :-)

This is very true, in the process of heating, as in when tempering, steel does go through different colors  .I do not recall the exact temperatures however.But I do recall that blue is in the spectrum.However I would think that heating such a small piece of metal of an unspecified alloy to an exact temperature to obtain an exact color could require so much art and science as to border on magic.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is very true, in the process of heating, as in when tempering, steel does go through different colors  .I do not recall the exact temperatures however.But I do recall that blue is in the spectrum.However I would think that heating such a small piece of metal of an unspecified alloy to an exact temperature to obtain an exact color could require so much art and science as to border on magic.

 

The hand should not be hit by the heat directly but lay in a bed of brass filings. It will change colors starting with a dark yellow to purple to royal blue to grey blue. Royal blue is usually reached with 290°C / 550°F. The Swiss do it. So I can do it :-D The magic really is to remove the heat immediately and cool down once the object has reached the desired color.

 

But I won’t say no to a blued hand, ready to be mounted of course. :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
×
×
  • Create New...