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    • By tanglefoot
      Hello good people: I'm new at this stuff and I want to learn just enough to be dangerous!
      That way I can keep the real professionals busy!
    • By Muncheon
      This evenings victim is a Seiko from December of 1970. The only issue other than being a daily wear for some mod rocker back in the day is the crown has no click. Winding, time and date changes as normal but something is amiss in the keyless work.
       

      My fabulous-ly inexpensive tool for unscrewing casebacks will not shrink small enough to capture the grooves so a moments thought and some rearranging of the bits allows us to get started.

      Checking the inside of the back for service marks shows no entry, screw heads seem undisturbed by other rookies such as myself and of course I have forgotten to set the time to allow easy removal of the hands. Reinserting the crown and stem and using hand pullers with plastic bag leaves the dial in pretty good shape even with my clumsy handling. 






      Of course you folks see it although I didn't: the adapter ring is still around the movement barring access to the dial feet screws. Looking around we see two screws at the tip of the tweezers that look like they will do the job. Sure enough the ring drops away and the foot screws can be loosened on either side of of the dial. 
       




      Removing the dial while looking for a washer underneath we see the broken spring end laying on the date wheel. Of course all this manipulation without a movement holder will probably cause more trouble later. But at least without the dial getting squished we now secure this tiny movement a little more properly.



      Removing the weight reveals the winding mechanism. Depressing button just above the crown allows stem to be replaced, then held while holding the click just below the stem to take the small residual power away after all this abuse. Amplitude seems quite minimal but not unexpected since I've probably squished things pretty good a few times up to this point. 
      Feeling pretty intimidated at this point, put everything away until tomorrow night. See you then!
    • By PaulnKC
      WRT Members,
      I have a 50's/60's era Waltham men's wristwatch that needs some help.
      It's in amazing (as-new) condition, but while wearing the other day, it stopped - even though there should have been plenty of power in the mainspring.
      Disassembling for investigation quickly revealed the trouble. The screw-head from the ratchet wheel screw had broken off and found its way in to the train wheels and locked everything up.
      There appears to be no other damage - thankfully. But now I want to fix the movement. My preference would be to find a barrel arbor and screw - or better yet a complete going barrel assembly new with ratchet wheel screw.
      I am search eBay now - but thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone knew of a good source for such parts. I haven't found any yet.
      NOTE: This movement is Swiss made, 7 jewels, marking on the base plate look like Unitas 1690/02
      Any info/help is greatly appreciated.
      Kind Regards,
      -Paul
    • By Lenj
      Hi all,
      Strange I have two Fema clock movements to repair, both with broken mainsprings and one with a broken click spring, can you please tell me, are the click springs readily available???has anyone bought one, if so where from?
      Photo attached of good click spring, this is the type that I need.. 
      Hope you are all well..
      Thx Len
       

    • By m1ks
      Hmmm, kind of!
      But........ It shows great potential as a hobbyist alternative, with some tweaking.
      After a back and forth with @Andyhull on another thread it got me to thinking perhaps it's not as useless as my initial annoyance led me to think, (I broke a mainspring trying it but to be fair the spring had been previously abused and the tool wasn't ideally sized allowing the coils to jump and tangle).
      I had a bit of a resize with sanding stick and scalpel and tried again and it's certainly got promise, I need to tweak the file to suit specific barrels but it's a simple quick 3 part print using barely any filament.
      Obviously not anywhere near as good as the proper bergeon winder but definitely cheaper for the hobbyist, (even if you haven't already got a printer and had to buy one first).
      Here's a video of it if anyone is interested, comments and ideas are welcome.
       
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    • I've not tried shipping from outside the UK recently, other than from China. UK to UK shipping is currently pretty normal. i.e. slow as ever, but not much slower. China shipping is variable. I rarely ship to/from the USA as it has always been a bit of a rip off. $30 for a $10 item.. that sort of nonsense.
    • Many are just friction fitted. They are factory pushed on. 
    • Oh my word that’s so kind... I’ll be happy to reimburse you if you find anything
    • This is the pallet staff in place with both plates screwed down. A puff off my blower and as you can see it spins freely, as does the rest of the train. So I’m thinking the low amplitude is again the hairspring. It seems to be catching on itself as there looks to be a definite click to it when it’s in motion, it’s not massive but it’s visible.  Theories and thoughts appreciated, cheers  IMG_7091.MOV
    • Called an assortment or a mess, I,ll dig in my bag of 2000 staffs, I just may find some to suit your balance wheel. If not an exact match, you can get by with broaching for J and G while  K isn't as significant. Making a staff is a last resort and expensive and whoever makes one should fit it onto the wheel and poise it as well. I,ll start digging, be happy to gift wrap and send you some, fingers  crossed.    
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