I have a 50's/60's era Waltham men's wristwatch that needs some help.
It's in amazing (as-new) condition, but while wearing the other day, it stopped - even though there should have been plenty of power in the mainspring.
Disassembling for investigation quickly revealed the trouble. The screw-head from the ratchet wheel screw had broken off and found its way in to the train wheels and locked everything up.
There appears to be no other damage - thankfully. But now I want to fix the movement. My preference would be to find a barrel arbor and screw - or better yet a complete going barrel assembly new with ratchet wheel screw.
I am search eBay now - but thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone knew of a good source for such parts. I haven't found any yet.
NOTE: This movement is Swiss made, 7 jewels, marking on the base plate look like Unitas 1690/02
Any info/help is greatly appreciated.
Strange I have two Fema clock movements to repair, both with broken mainsprings and one with a broken click spring, can you please tell me, are the click springs readily available???has anyone bought one, if so where from?
Photo attached of good click spring, this is the type that I need..
Hope you are all well..
Hmmm, kind of!
But........ It shows great potential as a hobbyist alternative, with some tweaking.
After a back and forth with @Andyhull on another thread it got me to thinking perhaps it's not as useless as my initial annoyance led me to think, (I broke a mainspring trying it but to be fair the spring had been previously abused and the tool wasn't ideally sized allowing the coils to jump and tangle).
I had a bit of a resize with sanding stick and scalpel and tried again and it's certainly got promise, I need to tweak the file to suit specific barrels but it's a simple quick 3 part print using barely any filament.
Obviously not anywhere near as good as the proper bergeon winder but definitely cheaper for the hobbyist, (even if you haven't already got a printer and had to buy one first).
Here's a video of it if anyone is interested, comments and ideas are welcome.
I have a Rotary Monza I am fixing up. I disassembled the barrel and removed and cleaned the mainspring. I secured a copy of the parts list and it shows that as well as the mainspring, there is also a Brake Spring (part 775 on the picture). What is it, and do I really need it? Certainly Cousins does not sell it. I googled AS 1902 brake spring and ONE result came up of a Russian watch forum discussing this item. Apparently it is thicker than a normal spring and it seems to have some sort of bent over feature on it. Can I just make one using the old mainspring? If so, how long should it be? Is it really necessary?
ROTARY Monza AS 1902.pdf
Recently replaced the mainspring in a vintage watch (a Westfield 7j). Cleaned and lubricated watch. Worked fine for several days. Now I have a problem in which it stops before the mainspring is fully unwound--power reserve appears to be less than 24 hrs, but I haven't done a precise check. Just noticed this morning that it was stopped at about 0530. Prior to this the watch had good power reserve and the mainspring fully unwound--power reserve over 30 hrs. What kinds of things might cause this?
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Touching shortens the operating length of HS, thence, runs balance fast and amplitude decrease so high amplitudes you are seeing reasonably dismisses" touching " Good amplitude can only come about by strong impulse, which impulse can be generated by strong MS or strong drop of pallet jewel, you are seeing high amplitude at low wind. So you either got a massay ferguson MS in the barrel or pallet is positioned wrong, banks are solid and look undamaged, that makes pallets or fork suspecious .
Hello! Not sure if this is the right place for my question since I do not intend to do the repair myself. However I am wondering if anyone knows an approximate price of a tachymeter for the Omega 3520.50 day-date (tripple date). If anyone has any idea what a insert and the "repair" would cost at a watch shop, please let me know. Thanks in advance. Jakob
Thank you all for thinking along with me I'll first try Loctite as that feels & seems to me a less intrusive and a very valid option. If that were to fail, an attempt to solder the joint can still be done. The other way around seems less attractive to me. Soldering is still a good option provided, just like with the Loctite, we were to get a proper surface bondage. Loctite doesn't seem to have an issue with different material or surfaces. Unknown to me are the long term behavior of Loctite, from soldered joints we are all well aware of the fatigue problems. I'll report back with my findings