Jump to content

Timex Refurbishment - Need some advice!


Recommended Posts

ok, so with the crystal off do you still notice the issues you described?

If so, you will have to check under the dial.  My guess is it relates to the winding gears and how they mesh up to the cannon pinon.

welcome to vintage Timex debugging!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, JerseyMo said:

ok, so with the crystal off do you still notice the issues you described?

If so, you will have to check under the dial.  My guess is it relates to the winding gears and how they mesh up to the cannon pinon.

welcome to vintage Timex debugging!

 

Haha, yes.  I had a feeling this was going to have challenges along the way.  I will remove the crystal and see if that is the issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

52 minutes ago, totalrekall said:

Removed the crystal - still seems frozen.

time to get deeper …… 

what you have to do now is follow the mechanical trail so to speak.  Remove the dial and top bridge that hold the date ring.  Than with the stem in place pull it to set position. and begin to turn.  I have a hunch what it is but come on do you really want it to be that easy?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/29/2019 at 5:31 PM, JerseyMo said:

time to get deeper …… 

what you have to do now is follow the mechanical trail so to speak.  Remove the dial and top bridge that hold the date ring.  Than with the stem in place pull it to set position. and begin to turn.  I have a hunch what it is but come on do you really want it to be that easy?

Turns out it WAS the crystal!  I had it set too deep in the watch - first time using a crystal lift!  Re-applied the crystal at a slightly higher depth, and now it works perfectly and still runs like a champ.  Now, time to purchase a nice band to go with it and give it a nice buffing with the Dremel.  Then project pictures!

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
×
×
  • Create New...