Jump to content
antonyh

German wall clock

Recommended Posts

I picked up a very very cheap German striking clock the other day, well I thought it was cheap. 

The movement has been a pig from start to finish, still not happy with it, I couldn't get a mainspring strength wise to what I wanted, as in the modern springs in the equivalent thickness are so much stronger. 

I've had to take the case basically to pieces, just to put it back together. 

The clock is circa 1900, so the case had 100 years of dirt and old varnish on, and I mean really dirty, I'm thinking it's been in a smokers house. 
I have used a combination of methalated spirit's, wax and this wounder full stuff called brish on French polish, and sadolin wood stain. 
Unfortunately I didn't take any before pictures,this was taken just as I was working on the door, but you will get the idea.
I'm still working on the rest of the case, just doing bit by bit, as I'm in no rush

IMG_20190902_192633.jpg

IMG_20190922_190024.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Looks a nice old clock and one worth the trouble as they usually come up well. check the holes and peg them out well.  If the mainspring is broken at the end it is possible to remake the ends and re fit. I have repaired one or two that way and have been no trouble.  Meths is great for removing the years of grime, you can also use it with 0000 grade wire wool to remove the grime. when finished try polishing with bees wax and the wool and buff up you get a nice mellow sheen and a finish comensurate with its age.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting the exact mainspring strength is very difficult for some clocks. However providing the strength is not way too strong or weak the clock will run fine. Thats providing it has been cleaned, pivots polished, worn bushes replaced, lubricated and put in beat.

There are many methods of cleaning a vintage wood clock case but basically you need to remove years of dirt/grime 0000 wire wool and a sprit works or you could try the method below. Once the grime is gone you can re -stain and varnish.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Thanks all for your comments. 

Yes it's a German striking clock, count wheel, there was so much wrong with it, as with replacing the spring, bent teeth, the hole for the pin to keep the minute hand on was missing, so I had to drill that out then sort the hands out.

I did find out who made the clock, I will see if I can find it again. 

I think I've got another picture of the door as I'm progressing.IMG_20190917_132418.thumb.jpg.7cdecdb9696b04dbff278e44fcfc5d1f.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Many thanks for all the help and apologies for the delay in responding. I managed to get the appropriate sized screwdriver and did as vinn3 suggested to great effect. This allowed me to slide in the stem and lock it. I was now able to move the hands. However... when i try to wind  the stem it immediately springs back the exact amount i have wound. Also the lower screw in the photo [with the arrow around it] has come loose, I presume i over did it when i opened it previously and have now dislodged the connecting part. If anyone has any suggestions I'd love your feedback, as a novice i do not wish to damage this watch so if you think it best to begin on a lesser models and leave this to the pros i would happily hear this too.
    • If it were a construction site I'd be fired.  An 8-hour day and one successful joint to show for it.  I had to tweak the jig and lots of trial and error before I got my tools to behave.  Having that behind me, the rest of the drawers will take far less time.  So my 14 drawers will be box jointed just like this. 
    • Thanks again, VWatchie.  I think I understand now.  9501 and Molykote DX are for high friction areas.  The inside of the barrel is certainly high friction for automatics; but we're not trying to mitigate friction as much as we're trying to allow the main spring freedom to slide so it doesn't score or foul the internal wall of the barrel.  Yes?
    • Nice one Jon a good job well done
    • Hi I think the genuine part will fix it   after market parts although look the same quite often are not. Consider the crispness of the edges of the pattern part are they sharp if not that is likely the problem sliding over the pin not along it.
×
×
  • Create New...