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Hi

Can anyone give me a few pointers to buying a decent camera microscope set up so i can film and watch on going work via my computer.

I have a old stereo scope but it wont take a camera also cannot find replacement eye pieces for it either.

What camera res do i need?

What magnification?

Whats the best stereoscope camera set up?.

I want decent pics so i suppose a hd 4k camera or is that just over kill.

any advice before i invest this kind of money would be of great help.

cheers

gary

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Thing game might cost good money so I suggest that you play it conservatively. Do you have a camera now? What is your budget? I would start getting a small macro stand and experiment placing the loupe in front of the lens. Sometimes good results are achieved with ingenuity not sophisticated gear. 

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My advice would be to spend most of that for tools. You already have the stero microscope to see very closely. Taking super high res picture would not fix faults and to get advice on the forum all you need is a regular macro camera even if few years old. Bust surely you need a stand.

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I have a mirrorless Sony I have been wanting  to try this with.you can adapt a myriad  of high quality  manual focus  lenses to one.old minolta and konica  lenses  can be had for a song.the konica are wicked sharp  in the center. Its It's something  you might  look  into. Or just for grins try your cell phone camera..use your  inverted coffee  cup as a stand.

Edited by yankeedog
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19 minutes ago, Nutiborskoku said:

The downside is that the picture is crisp and sharp in the middle but out of focus around it, like a fish eye lens.

Is your a 0.45X lens? According to this vendor https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32834912449.html

Note : All the market The model 0.45X will take distortion Picture when you use wide angle photos , if you want Anti-Distortion picture , Please choose the 0.6X

So I've ordered the 0.6X.

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1 hour ago, jdm said:

Is your a 0.45X lens? According to this vendor https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32834912449.html

Note : All the market The model 0.45X will take distortion Picture when you use wide angle photos , if you want Anti-Distortion picture , Please choose the 0.6X

So I've ordered the 0.6X.

I've tried a couple and none of them really worked but perhaps you're lucky and yours works flawlessly.

Contemporary mobile phones have multiple lenses but the picture above was taken with a Samsung Galaxy S6. It has a single lens so wide angle photos aren't possible.

Edited by Nutiborskoku

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I've tried a couple and none of them really worked but perhaps you're lucky and yours works flawlessly.
Contemporary mobile phones have multiple lenses but the picture above was taken with a Samsung Galaxy S6. It has a single lens so wide angle photos aren't possible.

I spent 1K on this professional stereo microscope.

And bought a 5M camera for it on AliExpress.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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7 hours ago, Nutiborskoku said:

I've tried those clip on lenses and they do work. The downside is that the picture is crisp and sharp in the middle but out of focus around it, like a fish eye lens.

This picture was taken with one of those clip on lenses.

 

omega-crown1.jpg

Paper  aperture...piece  of black paper  with a hole  punched  in it taped to the lens..experiment  with size.but I am guessing  standard  paper hole punch ought to do it. Using  only the center of the lens at a smaller  aperture  should  clear  up the edges  and bring them  into better  focus..less refraction. 

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22 hours ago, jdrichard said:


I spent 1K on this professional stereo microscope.


And bought a 5M camera for it on AliExpress.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The biggest problem i have with my microscope is that it is only really good for looking at a flat/still object. The DOF is so shallow that when i move the object i have to adjust the focus constantly. Does this microscope have the same issue?

For example, if i wanted to look at a pallet jewel to check the lubrication as i move the pallet fork around with my tweezers, it will be out of focus unless i keep it at exactly the same distance from the lens which is very difficult to do.

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The biggest problem i have with my microscope is that it is only really good for looking at a flat/still object. The DOF is so shallow that when i move the object i have to adjust the focus constantly. Does this microscope have the same issue?
For example, if i wanted to look at a pallet jewel to check the lubrication as i move the pallet fork around with my tweezers, it will be out of focus unless i keep it at exactly the same distance from the lens which is very difficult to do.

I actually do not have that bad an issue. It is a 20 to 70x zoom and I can get really close up and move parts around within reason: without a refocus. I think at 70x there would be a bit of refocus.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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16 hours ago, AP1875 said:

 Does this microscope have the same issue?

I've a lot of microscopes and have done a lot of photography for print.  AFAIK its structural, that is the microscopes DOF issue, and aside from general optical quality I don't think not any optical scope is going to deliver better DOF than another.  I've a trinocular Meiji (third is for a camera mount) and despite the quality of the scope its tough to get  good results with photography because of DOF issues.  Magnification obviously plays a big part - zoomed in DOF is much less.  The camera of course is mounted on the scope without a lens so you have no aperture. 

If you do want great stills from a microscope, image stacking is a common approach, but its somewhat challenging to get a good result from.  Basically you move the objective up  and take images image is 1/2 a thou or less so and then use software to combine the parts from each that are focus.  Some guys get amazing results, but its not easy....here's an ok example that includes some watch stuff 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=7&v=ocu751r-uxI 

For stills, you can get great DOF by using a high aperture setting.   Using a macro lens, that's what I most often do, and shoot with a long exposure/ high aperture.  If you don't have a macro lens, the extension tubes are inexpensive.

 

I'd also be interested in hearing Marks tips, I don't know much about video but have always thought his video production results to be excellent

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15 hours ago, measuretwice said:
If you do want great stills from a microscope, image stacking is a common approach, but its somewhat challenging to get a good result from.  Basically you move the objective up  and take images image is 1/2 a thou or less so and then use software to combine the parts from each that are focus.

My camera can do focus stacking directly, so the procedure is greatly simplified. Personally I don't need or use it much, but nice to have in some cases.

Edited by jdm

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There are microscopes out there that do have DOF control so it's worth looking for them if DOF is important.

I was lucky as my Wild M5 came with just such a facility in the form of a module that fits into the optical path. It increases the magnification by a factor of 1.25x and includes two synchronised diaphragms, one in each optical pathway, specifically to increase DOF, albeit at the expense of image brightness.

How well this works photographically I don't know as I don't have a microscope/camera set up, but I would imagine that it should be quite good as it can reduce the aperture from about 12mm down to about 1.5mm.

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3 hours ago, jdm said:

My camera can do focus stacking directly, so the procedure is greatly simplified. Personally I don't need or use it much, but nice to have in some cases.

Have you tried this with a microscope?   How's it going to work with a microscope, as you don't (in my experience) use the camera lens with the camera mounted on the microscope?   The only way to focus is the scope's focus. 

For a landscape its pretty easy to to take a dozen photos and use photoshop but I understand there are real challenges to getting great results with microscopy focus stacking.  Mainly how to you get 100's of photos shot at .01mm (some try for microns) increments driven by a servo or stepper moving the head.  Then its a long process with specialty stacking software.   I tried it with small manual adjustments and photoshop and it was a mess.  A camera and macro setup, using the highest F stops settings I find is best for a pretty good DOF (sans some uber expensive auto digital stacking camera, like there was a thread about not too long ago)

Mark, that is something I missed.  There are DOF iris's in some cameras, so far out of my snack bracket...is yours some sort of detachment or integral diaphragm?

 

 

Edited by measuretwice

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This is the DOF module for the M5 with the aperture stopped down.

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The M5 without the module fitted...

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....and with the module in place. Excuse the missing stage plate.

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In this set up it's a bit cumbersome and impssibe to use on the bench it's siting on. To the right of this bench is another desk about 12" lower though which accomodates it nicely.

The camera on the stand to the left is an old Nikon D100 fitted with a 2x teleconverter and a Helios 58mm f2 lens which I use for my reference photos. It is a totally manual set up so once set I can just place the watch on the base board and push the button. I don't even look through the viewfinder.

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This is what I use for my close up shots. It's and old 6.1mp Kodak bridge camera. It has aperture priority auto so I can set the smallest aperture for max DOF, and a good quality Schneider lens. I have taped an objective lens from an old pair of binoculars to the front to improve its close up capability.

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As you can see DOF is limited at the closest focusing distance and max zoom.

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But still useable.

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By moving further back though DOF is greatly improved and the resolution is still good enough to crop the shot. All the above are full frame.

100_1724a.thumb.JPG.52a1eabfea3ab8695befbf1b97139cc2.JPG

This one is a crop of the previous shot.

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On 9/23/2019 at 9:10 PM, Nutiborskoku said:

I've tried a couple and none of them really worked but perhaps you're lucky and yours works flawlessly.

My lens arrived, it's of very limited use for either wide or macro shots on my Sony.

DSC_0084-800x450.JPG.03519508c4dd2c8a1399207e4178bb00.JPG

DSC_0083-450x800.thumb.JPG.b806f971bc1ad441db64f7f29b247746.JPG

 

In the context of this thread I think it's important to show what our member VWatchie gets with an Iphone 6S and a $10 lens.

image.png

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