Jump to content

Another Omega 1337 thread.


Recommended Posts

Hi All

I had the idea, after reading through quite a bit of the internet to "simply" replace the movement in my buggered Omega with some after market cheap engine. Easier said than done: or what? as we say around here.

Its a https://www.omegawatches.com/en-gb/watch-omega-seamaster-classic-md-196-0281 

I've seen the posts on repairing these movements and that is not something I'm considering; for example, I can't even get the hands off to get the dial off this one.... Looks like water got in through the stem as opposed to the dramatic battery damage I've seen.

Does anyone know if there is an Omega mechanical movement of the same size as a 1337 that I could use in this ? Cousins don't always put feet positions or movement height on data and the twin cities catalog for quartz movements I saw, although old; all the feet positions are wrong on all the 11.5 movements... as they need to be at 12 and 6 here. The Omega website isn't much use as all the alternatives it gives in the link above are, err, quartz.

Looks like working 1332s are just as expensive to find as 1337s are.

Its such an elegant watch, but its probably going to end up on ebay as spares / repair because I can already hear stem height, what about the push in button, movement height, get feet moved, it says quartz and it will end up with a sweeping seconds hand, finding one,etc etc.

If I can get something else to fit inside I'll just use it myself as I like watches that look like the Relide I'm wearing now in the last pic with its good old AS 1686.

Cheers in advance. 

Luke

dial.jpg

mvmt.jpg

20190830_145345.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi LNM I had the same problem.

I have identified that the only practical option is a quartz movement. You wont find a mechanical that is the same size.

I found that the original movement was just over 11 1/2 ligne.

The only quartz movement that I know  of that is correctly sized is the.......bam badabam.... Hattori VX42 Movement

https://www.jewelerssupplies.com/HATTORI-VX42.html

It is a cheap $6 movement by Seiko from cousins.
it has a exactly fitting date wheel - it fits perfectly.
The dial feet even fit the movement however the crown is then offset.
Option - transplant the dial feet OR cut the feet off and use dial dots/adhesive OR drill new holes in the movement for the dial feet.


The hour and seconds hand fits. Sadly the minute hand doesnt fit - I suggest either using a different hand set or broaching out the omega minute hand.

The movement has a good positive feel, great timekeeping  - is japanese quality and common as a  dime a dozen from the supply houses.

You will thank me when you try one :)

Good luck

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi. Yes I get it , the slot in the end I’d to allow you to screw the button on whilst holding the pusher shaft. To remove the pusher tube you will need a tool such as the one shown by Richard. I think Ali Express the Chinese Amazon has replicas of the Horotec system for a lot less money, how effective they are not having had to use one. But as you said the way to go is complete removal and replacement, bodging it up will  lead to a repeat failure
    • It does look like it seems to be working again I'm getting emails.
    • One of the things that I've been bothered with lately is timekeeping? For instance a 90-year-old pocket watch what so to timekeeping was it supposed to keep? They publish railroad timekeeping but I don't know how well normal non-railroad watches were supposed to keep time. The reason why the question comes up for me is I spend a lot of time at work adjusting watches to keep really really good time  because I have to please my boss where as when the watch was made I have to wonder what kind timekeeping would've been acceptable. After all they typically didn't have timing machines 100 years ago and they were timing and six positions certainly not for the non-railroad grade watch. On the other hand I do get paid by the hour so maybe I shouldn't be concerned of how much time I Spend trying to make everything keep chronometer timekeeping almost. Citing a Delta of 40 seconds for a 90-year-old watch is quite outstanding.
    • That's an interesting question which I don't think I've seen explained anywhere. But I think the problem will go away just about instantaneously. In other words the  coating is really thin and it should go away almost immediately. So the problem should resolve itself extremely fast.  
    • I experienced that different types of shellac and their ages are affected differently by IPA. Sometimes the shellac dissolves in a few seconds and sometimes several minutes are required. Nowadays I never let shellac come into contact with IPA. It's a hotly debated topic here on WRT if you search. Like John, I don't think you need to worry about the weight of the shellac, but instead that it might start rubbing against something. When I learned how to adjust pallet stones, I tried documenting my experiences in this thread. Hopefully, it can help you. I personally don't believe in the idea of abrading the epilame before oiling so I don't think you need to think or worry about it. The only time I've heard anyone mention this is Alex on the YouTube channel Watch Repair Tutorials but actually no one else. I'm not saying it's "wrong" just that I don't think it's necessary or adds anything.
×
×
  • Create New...