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Rubbed in jewel hand tools

Seth

By Seth
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Seth Watch Enthusiast

Seth

Posted
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Hi there, Can anyone help me in obtaining a set of tools like Mark uses to open out the jewel setting and close over the metal after inserting the jewel in his video of Replacing a Balance cock jewel.I have searched every possible site that I can think of but no luck as yet so I thought I would try here.Regards,Trevor.

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Tmuir Distinguished Member

Tmuir

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Tools for rubbed in jewels are not made anymore.

Your best bet is just to keep an eye on ebay, but don't bid unless they show good photos of the tips of the tools as they can be rusted or damaged and then they will be useless.

Remember you need both sets of tools, the openers and closers.

I've got a great set of openers, but still haven't got myself a good set of closers, you can get away without them if you have a watchmakers lathe, but that does get more compicated.

Good luck in your search.

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nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

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Dave's Watch Parts has a set of openers/closers

 

http://www.daveswatchparts.com/JewelingTools.html

 

I've been doing this a couple of decades and lots of restoration on pre-1920s pieces, owned numerous sets of openers/closers, and never really liked any of them. In old stuff the brass or German silver seems to get brittle over time and doesn't like being stretched out and then back in. Cheaper grade watches respond better for some reason. In a really nice old Lecoultre or something I do it all in the lathe, sometimes making jewel holding bushings that are the same size as the oil sink (decorative one) on the bridge and it all blends in and is really invisible.

 

But they do work, those tools, sometimes.

 

Just did an Omega pocketwatch with separate hole and end stones in chatons American style, the rubbed in hole jewel was demolished and managed to press it out with the Horia, opened the lip a bit (in the lathe), and got a new one in. Re-rubbed with tweezers and you'd have to look really closely to see it's not original.

 

 

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