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Hi from TN

bytes2doc

By bytes2doc
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bytes2doc Member

bytes2doc

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Nice to be a part of the group. I lurked around awhile go. Just finished level 2 of Mark’s course.

I’ve been a member of the NAWCC for many years, and taken their onsite pocket watch repair course, and repaired many since. I also restore old clocks, both the case and movement. Picture attached is of a recent restore. This clock is an 1894 Ansonia that was ready for the trash pile. 

I am also in the midst of building a skeleton clock from brass stock. I use a Sherline lathe and mill to turn the wheels and cut the teeth. It has been many years in the making, but has taken its first ticks this year.

looking forward to more learning and more work on watches. Mark has a great and easy style for learning.  I’m almost finished servicing my first automatic watch I ever bought, a Tissot embedded with an ETA 2824-2. The mainspring just arrived.

 

 

A2A3355A-5DBD-4AB2-94F7-03472B7F77F9.jpeg

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      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
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      By joelcarvajal · Posted

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    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • nevenbekriev
      Main spring

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
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