Jump to content

2824-2 - Date Change 1 Hr Late


Recommended Posts

I have installed and completed a custom project watch using an Asian Clone 2824-2 movement. Dial is seated, hands set, timing within +4sec a day face up - fine. On my first test, the date flips at midnight - good job, the hands have been set to align to midnight when the date changes. I give the watch a healthy hand wind and we're off to the races. Each morning, I confirm the time keeping and date. Each morning everything looks good. Until morning 8. That's when I notice the date hasn't changed but the time is correct. I decide to manually change the date by setting the hands, it's changes at 8:00a. 

Strange. I do this again. This time it changes at 9:00a. Then 10:00a. And so on. 

So, the movement is keeping good time. Which to me suggests the hands aren't dragging, right? Because the time would be one hour off. 

So I'm at a loss here. What could be the issue causing a consistently changing date flip, 1 hour later every day? 

Thank for your help! 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What a unique problem!!

allow me to venture a guess?

 

time is accurate.

minutes and hour hands are aligned and in sync.   You can set the date but it changes an hour later each day.

Im going to get some terminology wrong here, so please forgive me:

i would look at the day/date reduction wheel.  The one(s) that feed the day/date jumper.  I would guess it is either damages, or, more likely, it’s the wrong component for that movement and is slightly too small for that particular movement’s calendar works.

it the reduction wheel were the wrong diameter or had the wrong number of teeth, it would cause only the date to be affected.  Too large and I THINK the date would turn early.  Too small and an it turns late.  Or vise versa.

 

the only way you can determine this is to look up the specs of the original movement being cloned and see what size, configuration those wheels be.

 

Thats just a guess.

please post when you figure it out?  This one has me intrigued!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

New to watches, I would venture a guess.  Since it was behaving as expected for a full 8 days, then started to switch the date incorrectly, would imply something broke, or became misaligned, or loose at day 8. 

Obviously I haven’t a clue, but it’s fun to speculate!

would appreciate and update when you figure it out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, bytes2doc said:

 Since it was behaving as expected for a full 8 days, then started to switch the date incorrectly, would imply something broke, or became misaligned, or loose at day 8. 

That's not what the OP wrote. He only noticed the fault on the 8th day, since just then it became evident during daytime.

If the mov`t is of the same low grade as in Mark's video below I think one can expect any kind of design or manufacturing defect. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/21/2019 at 10:14 AM, ITProDad said:

What a unique problem!!

allow me to venture a guess?

 

time is accurate.

minutes and hour hands are aligned and in sync.   You can set the date but it changes an hour later each day.

Im going to get some terminology wrong here, so please forgive me:

i would look at the day/date reduction wheel.  The one(s) that feed the day/date jumper.  I would guess it is either damages, or, more likely, it’s the wrong component for that movement and is slightly too small for that particular movement’s calendar works.

it the reduction wheel were the wrong diameter or had the wrong number of teeth, it would cause only the date to be affected.  Too large and I THINK the date would turn early.  Too small and an it turns late.  Or vise versa.

 

the only way you can determine this is to look up the specs of the original movement being cloned and see what size, configuration those wheels be.

 

Thats just a guess.

please post when you figure it out?  This one has me intrigued!!!

Thanks! I agree with your hypothesis - I'll get around to testing the theory in a few days when I've got a few new parts to interchange. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

@ITProDad

Frustratingly I cannot say for certain the issue. I disassembled the watch to remove and inspect the hour wheel, intermediate date wheel, and calendar driving wheel. All appeared clean and undamaged under 10x mag. 

Reassembled the movement, installed a generic movement hour hand, and wound. Tested the date change over night and by hand setting the time. It all works fine now. 

Reassembled the watch, retested....it's all working fine. 

My guess is it was dirty or had something causing the teeth to misalign - and that was dislodged when I removed the wheels. 

Case unsatisfying-ly closed. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you have a dial washer? If not that can be the cause. Sometimes even without a dial washer and there being enough space between the dial and hour wheel to allow it to disengage, the minute hand will limit the vertical movement of the hour hand/wheel. Maybe you had a situation where it was almost secure but when the hour wheel is under tension arming the date wheel it just makes it to skip a tooth.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you ever seen grease spread?  I use Molykote DX on the keyless, cannon pinion, etc and cannot imagine it spreading. Similarly, HP1300 should not be a problem, as long as you don't splash too much about.  9010 does like to travel though. I've recently re-serviced a couple of my watches I first serviced about 5 years ago. I was a bit too liberal with the oil and grease back then, but it hasn't spread everywhere. I only epilame on balance cap stones, escape wheel and pallet stones (and auto wheels if they need it).   If you use it all over, the oil might bead-up and travel even further - think of using RainX on your car windows.
    • Polish it where the old part cracked as well. Get rid of the stress-raisers.
    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...