Hi, my name is Ross. I am a rookie watch enthusiast and I am really puzzled here.
Could someone explain to me what kind of a problem am I facing with my timegrapher?
I do two sets of measurements with the same watch (1 day or 6 days apart) and receive vastly different results - to the point of being completely different from what I observe in real life.
For example, my timegrapher shows that my watch is running fast (or ahead of time), while in real life I observe that it runs 7 seconds per day behind. I even recorded a video about it so you could see it for yourself: https://youtu.be/mhGzf6aLMlY
How should I interpret that? Am I doing anything wrong?
Padd here from the UK.
It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.
Get some self adhesive 3M tape and make some buff sticks. Don't use a mop as you'll round the edges. Get the equivalent of 200, 400 and 800 grit (I can't remember the micron equivalent, so look it up) and see how you get on by experimenting on scrap cases.
Looks very good to me.
The "noise" as opposed to a straight line is often inconsistency/un-evenness of the individual beats of the escapement. In my experience, this is due to cleanliness or lubrication (including over-lubrication) of the escapement. I'd still say it looks "ok". The other reason for the noise is if the watch pickup is not getting a strong enough signal.
But if you want to clean that trace up, I'd first ask: did you clean the escape wheel and pallets, are the pallet jewel holes clean, and are the pallet stones lightly lubricated?