Jump to content

Barrel broken tooth

Giumollo

By Giumollo
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Giumollo Member

Giumollo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 minutes ago, jdm said:

No, it will not run well.
Seiko barrels, as often mentioned are not meant to be opened.
If you have trouble finding a replacement PM your  address and I'll send an used one.

Oh crap...

just checked Ebay and Cousins. No replacement..... :(

It is really nice of you to ship me one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, Giumollo said:

Part number 0201 083 Barrel Complete. So much I found out but nowhere to buy it.

The thing is, a barrel complete (e.g. 201.420) retail is £17.55, compare to £31.95 for the complete mov't. (prices excluding VAT).
It just doesn't make sense to stock, or even buy, the spare part.
 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

If you broke a barrel tooth it was probably wound up, and there are likely other damaged wheels/pinions- have a good look at them.

I think, as mentioned, the OP broke it while trying to open the barrel to "service" the MS - that's never needed on modern Seiko, but something that beginners like to do anyway.

Edited by jdm
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Giumollo Member

Giumollo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 minutes ago, jdm said:

I think, as mentioned, the OP broke it while trying to open the barrel to "service" the MS - that's never needed on modern Seiko, but something that beginners like to do anyway.

If I only knew.... :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Giumollo Member

Giumollo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 minute ago, jdm said:

This forum, -and the entire Internet- is here for you to read, search and ask before acting.

You're right. Saw Mark's video with the Seiko 5 and he did open the barrel. I just thought it was the natural thing to do. Be sure won't happen again. 

Thanks again

Giuseppe

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Giumollo said:

You're right. Saw Mark's video with the Seiko 5 and he did open the barrel. I just thought it was the natural thing to do. Be sure won't happen again.

He's not the only one. Nicholas Hacko, a self-called master Watchmaker teaches the same in his incomplete 7S26 tutorial. If one has no better choice it can done, but very carefully.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Giumollo said:

Part number 0201 083 Barrel Complete. So much I found out but nowhere to buy it.

Cousinsuk has it . Often the 0 isn't used when seaching seiko parts . i looked at 7S26 movement . That uses the same barrel. And you are not alone. Did the same on my first 7005 Seiko . Have the same construction. Have barrels if you need. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Giumollo Member

Giumollo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
16 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

Cousinsuk has it . Often the 0 isn't used when seaching seiko parts . i looked at 7S26 movement . That uses the same barrel. And you are not alone. Did the same on my first 7005 Seiko . Have the same construction. Have barrels if you need. 

Perfect!!!

I was searching under NH35A. They indeed have it. £16.90.

I will order then. 

Thanks a lot!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted (edited)
27 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

i looked at 7S26 movement . That uses the same barrel. And you are not alone. Did the same on my first 7005 Seiko . Have the same construction. Have barrels if you need. 

Barrel and center wheel are different across A, B and C versions, details on my sheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vRN2UULQKTfKmhRStZhDdIOIQrqd6sPB-g6x2SKyQQjOvTBjG_7TQXQhAT4f1WqAX5QAPkIimi-3jqd/pubhtml

I think only the C version is interchangeable with the NH3x. I am ready to send one to Giuseppe, but if he wants to buy from Cousins I suggest that for 15 pounds more he gets a complete new mov't, and use the current one for practice, resell or even build a custom watch.

Edited by jdm
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

Posted
Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, jdm said:

Barrel and center wheel are different across A, B and C versions, details on my sheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vRN2UULQKTfKmhRStZhDdIOIQrqd6sPB-g6x2SKyQQjOvTBjG_7TQXQhAT4f1WqAX5QAPkIimi-3jqd/pubhtml

I think only the C version is interchangeable with the NH3x. I am ready to send one to Giuseppe, but if he wants to buy from Cousins I suggest that for 15 pounds more he gets a complete new mov't, and use the current one for practice or resell.

Think your option is a better choice. I only search 7S26  and found that it had the same number. But as you say the C is the movement that is closest to the NH35 . 

Edited by rogart63
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Disgrace
      Seiko 6309 intermittent stopping of the seconds hand at the same positions

      By Disgrace · Posted

      Hello everybody, sorry for the late reply. Thank you all so much for your help and your tips. I got lucky and found a replacement wheel bridge for cheap which actually ended up being in decent condition. I decided not to do anything about the mainspring barrel pivot since I didn't have the right tools and the barrel didn't have much endshake anyhow. I am happy to report that the watch now runs great, I have regulated it to about +-10/s day which is fine by my standards. The timegrapher result looks decent as well, although beat error is around 0.6ms which could be better I suppose. Amplitude reaches over 230 quite consistently which I'm happy with also. My lighter fluid has also been replaced by balance spring cleaning solution and now the springs don't stick to themselves anymore - who would have thought. I'm super happy with this watch, it might not be worth a whole lot but it's awesome that I could restore it and it makes me wear it with pride. To me it's a genuinely good lucking watch, it'll be my daily driver for a while. Thanks again to everybody for their input! I couldn't have done the repair without your help.   Here are some images for those interested, the bracelet isn't original but I don't really mind:    
    • nevenbekriev
      Is this a 'hack' ?

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Balance-hairspring system is oscillator with big Q-factor. When all in the movement is OK, the rate (frequency) is verry close to the own resonant frequency of the balance-hairspring. But in some cases, the movement (with foult) will force the resonator to work on pritty different frequency, sometimes faster, and sometimes slower. When this happens, the amplitude is always weak. So, the first thing to ask is what is the amplitude. If it is more than 180 and the hairspring doesn't touch itself and anything else, then for sure it is 'short'. If the amplitude is weak, then the first thing to do is to understand why and rectify the problem. At this time no point to check timekeeping. But, if one doubts that the hairspring is not correct, then He needs to calcullate the rate of the movement, then to 'vibrate' the balance-hairspring out of the movement and to measure the free oscillations frequency (period) with timer in order to ensure that they comply with the rate. If we have pictures, then it will be easier to tell something about that wheel.
    • Klassiker
      Landeron 248 setting eccentric studs

      By Klassiker · Posted

      So much work has gone into this! Thanks again @Jon. I will go back and check my adjustments from last weekend. A few questions for you, if you don't mind. In the reset position, I can understand the problem if the gap between the hammer and the minute counter heart is too big (slide 77) but what is bad about both hammers being in contact with the cams (slide 76)? I read somewhere that Landeron recommended grease on the runner cam, but the minute counter heart should be dry. Is that so, and why? How many tads in a ligne?
    • BlueHarp
      Difference between AS 1686 and ST 1686

      By BlueHarp · Posted

      Many thanks for your replies!
    • RichardHarris123
      Setting lever spring

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Could you glue two pieces together for rigidity and separate after forming? 
×
×
  • Create New...