Jump to content

Selita SW-500 Valjoux 7750 cant set time !


Baseq3

Recommended Posts

Hello Everyone currently working on a Tag Heuer Calibre 16 I picked up from an estate sale. The movement is a Selita SW-500 automatic very similar to the Valjoux 7750. Cant get the crown to pull out to position 3 to set time. It will wind properly in position 1 and change day and date when pulled to position 2 but will not pull out any further to set time to position 3 any thoughts ? Thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something is wrong with the setting lever and related parts, it needs to be taken apart and inspected.

If you never worked on watch movements, have the skills and required tools before I strongly recommend that you give it to a watchmaker and  do not try yourself  as it's a valuable piece.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, jdm said:

Something is wrong with the setting lever and related parts, it needs to be taken apart and inspected.

If you never worked on watch movements, have the skills and required tools before I strongly recommend that you give it to a watchmaker and  do not try yourself  as it's a valuable piece.  

Thank you for the quick response, I have worked on Miyota - 9100 and cleaned a few ETA-2824-2, but never a Selita SW-500 im thinking maybe the position of the setting pinion or the setting lever..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Baseq3 said:

Thank you for the quick response, I have worked on Miyota - 9100 and cleaned a few ETA-2824-2, but never a Selita SW-500 im thinking maybe the position of the setting pinion or the setting lever..

Yes, certainly the problem is in that area. I think you're on the right path to fix it yourself, maybe hone your skills a little more before undertaking this repair and service. In the meanwhile you can watch videos by our Host Mark Lovick, and why not, enroll in the High Definition online course.

 

Edited by jdm
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update I discovered the setting lever when crown is pulled all the way out does not engage because (see picture below) the post on my timing lever is gone so the lever was not secured at axis point which limited the range in which the lever could full extend. I ordered a new one should be here in a week. I will keep you updated, what I think happened is someone pushed the setting lever post to allow stem to insert or remove and they pushed it to hard and broke it.

s-l1600.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Baseq3 said:

Update I discovered the setting lever when crown is pulled all the way out does not engage because (see picture below) the post on my timing lever is gone so the lever was not secured at axis point which limited the range in which the lever could full extend. I ordered a new one should be here in a week. I will keep you updated, what I think happened is someone pushed the setting lever post to allow stem to insert or remove and they pushed it to hard and broke it.

Good finding. See if you can locate the snapped bit still inside the mov't?
It is well know that most damage is done by owners or improvised repairers.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

jdm how right you are, turns out the setting lever is an assembly and the post and screw that holds the post on were wedged in the movement near the yolk spring. Going to see if I cant reassemble the current one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Baseq3 said:

Going to see if I cant reassemble the current one.

Use a round nose stake to close a bit the hole on lever. If you are serious about working on mov'ts a staking set is a must have tool. 

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I would harden and temper (to a light blue). It's so easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. A search on ebay UK for "spring steel strip cs" finds plenty available in small quantites and thicknesses from 0.1mm up.  But the question is ( @nickelsilver) which "CS" number is best for watch parts ?  Also, from one of the ads : "CARBON SPRING STEEL. SIZE IS METRIC 15.00mm X 0.10mm X 304 MM  CS100 FINISH BRIGHT . HARDENED AND TEMPERD TO 480-530VPN" I've no idea about 480-530VPN. Does that mean it needs annealing before working?      
    • Here is the insert ring for rectangular or elliptical movements: Note that the length is the side with the stem cut out on the spreadsheet (in the picture below this is 15.15: Here is the fake pdf file, again you need to convert to .zip after download to access the FreeCAD and 3mf files. Rectangular insert disc.pdf    
    • as you took the mainspring out what did it look like? It's amazing how much amplitude you can get if the mainspring actually has the proper shape. last week I was doing a 12 size Hamilton and was very much surprised with the beautiful back curvature the mainspring had. Then the watch had a really nice amplitude the group would be so proud it was 350 until I dropped the lift angle down to 38 that drop the amplitude quite a bit below 300. then with the beautiful back curve it still had really nice amplitude the next day. I really wish all my mainspring's look like this as the watch had beautiful amplitude the next day. So many of the aftermarket pocketwatch Springs I see now do not have anything resembling a back curve may be a slight curve and that's about all. They still work but they just don't work as nice as a properly made spring. then Omega as all sorts of nifty technical documentation unfortunately every single corner is watermarked with where it came from who downloaded it etc. very paranoid company. On the other hand I will snip out images like from the document on recycling a mainspring barrel. for instance here's the section on what your mainspring should look like. water damaged a lot of times means rust was there rust on this watch?
    • I dont understand why a patreon membership would have limited places ??
×
×
  • Create New...